Over the Hill to Grandmother's House
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Another good route on the Riding Hood Wall. Over the Hill is the crack climb that pulls through a roof with black rock, right of Physical Graffiti. Many people only do the quality first pitch, and then rappel.
P1) Make sure to protect the beginning moves well. This is the crux and the landing is not great. Pull through the roof crack with varnished rock. Continue up easier climbing to some slings in the crack for a belay.
P2) Continue up the same crack system for a full rope length to the top.
Descent: Rap off west to a gully, then downclimb the gully.
|Photos of Over the Hill to Grandmother's House Slideshow
BETA PHOTO: Over the Hill to Grandmother's House
Over the Hill to Grandmother's House left variatio...
John employs a headjam in order to free his hands ...
Bryan Hawley attempting the right variation of Gra...
|Comments on Over the Hill to Grandmother's House
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 19, 2005
Another option, if this start is too intimidating is to step left about 15' and climb through the other side of the roof. Although it is also 5.9+, it is more secure and much less strenuous.
|By Matt McMurray|
From: Castle Rock, CO
Nov 13, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
This route is REALLY fun through the roof sections and then gets REALLY easy (read boring) to the slings that are jammed in the crack. I would strongly encourage doing the right line through the fist crack. It protects perfectly with a #4 and #3 Camalot, and you can get a solid stance below the roof using the undercling to place these pieces deep in the crack. Strong moves get you over the roof! =)
|By Top Rope Hero|
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
As for the right line, a bit of fair warning: DO NOT, under any circumstances, cram a red tech friend (just larger than a #4 Camalot) up in the wedge.
Unless, that is, you want your vicious, throat-ripping, banshee-screaming, I-will-fuck-you-gently-with-a-chainsaw, vengeance-filled bitch bull of a gurlfriend to smash you out of existence into a dirty little grease spot because you made her hang for 20 awkward mins trying to wrestle that POS cam free. Then by all means cram away.
Otherwise, I second the recommendation to bring that happy #4. Cheers!
From: Salt Lake City
Apr 17, 2011
really fun! you can also top rope it from the top of the first pitch of physical graffiti
|By J. Thompson|
From: denver, co
Oct 30, 2011
Left side was 5.9- IMHO.
Right side was 5.10.
Dec 29, 2011
I agree with Josh. Left side is casual, right is burly. Both lots of fun, rap with a single rope or finish up P.G.
|By Bryan Gilmore|
From: Your Mama
Apr 9, 2013
a great option for this route is to veer left about 15' above the roof and face climb directly to the Physical Graffiti anchor - this eliminates the easy sandy crack and you can then lower to the ground for TR'ing. Obviously it's a tad runout, but you can get a bomber red C3 about half way up between two plates.