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Over lap of mastercam and c4s
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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 30, 2012
El Chorro

I don't think it makes sense to have "doubles" of any one cam. But eventually you will want double SIZES and overlapping in the middle is a good way to start.

My rack in size order:

Purple c3
Green c3
Blue Mastercam
Green Alien
Yellow Mastercam
Yellow Alien
Orange Mastercam
Red Alien
Purple c4
Red Powercam
Green c4
Orange Alien
WC helium 2
Red c4
Helium 2.5
Gold c4
Helium 3
Blue c4
DMM 3.8?

That's 19 cams with triples in the middle (1 inch). In the UK I often only take 8-10 cams. Same with many areas in NC. If you're doing long crack climbs you'll have 14 or more cams. I just don't see a point in not having a lot of different stuff. Over time you'll learn what you like and what you don't. And in the end you'll decide that pretty much anything will work 90% of the time.


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By KENtucky
From Richmond, Ky
Dec 2, 2012
FAIL <br />

David Appelhans wrote:
This is actually what I have switched to doing for the last year as well.


Are you also still carrying the bd .4?


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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Dec 2, 2012
Imaginate

ilclimberken wrote:
Are you also still carrying the bd .4?


no.

Standard rack for me is master cams 1-2, metolius tcu 1-3, 1x BD .5, 2x BD .75-3 and a set of nuts with double overlap in the medium nut sizes. If the climb is supposed to be thin I'll bring a purple mastercam, if it is supposed to need a #4 I'll either add a #4 or trade out one of the BD #3 for the #4.

At the crag the extra weight and clutter of gear isn't really a problem, but I prefer to train at the crag on the same rack that I'd take alpine climbing.


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By William Nelson
From Cave Creek, AZ
Dec 9, 2012

My rack for small stuff is Metolius gray mastercam 00, purple mc 0, blue mc 1, then blue bd c4 .3, gray bd c4 .4., bd .5, .75, etc. This is in MHO the best option cause I dont have any aliens or the new bd x4s. People say small c4s have a much wider head, but its only 1/4" wider than mastercam of similar size(see picture). The bd x4 will be even more narrow, but will prob cost $80 (too much)

Mastercam # 1 on left (1 1/4" width). Bd c4 .3 on right (1 1/2" width)
Mastercam # 1 on left (1 1/4" width). Bd c4 .3 on right (1 1/2" width)


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By KENtucky
From Richmond, Ky
Dec 12, 2012
FAIL <br />

As it stands, i have singles in the c3's 1 & 2, .4. & .5 and doubles up to #2.. One of my .75's is about ready for replacement and i haven't used my .4 much, i do not own the .3BD. One of my partners and I have been climbing in a couple of areas where her orange and red TCU's are very necessary. I was thinking about selling the .4BD and dropping my double .75BD and adding the Orange and Red Tcu's, and then to compliment my C3's, add the Blue and Yellow Mastercams.

Anyone have an objection to this? I'm kinda wondering if i should go all Mastercams over the TCU's after reading this forum topic..


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By david doucette
Dec 12, 2012
Top of Intersection Rock, Joshua Tree NP.

ilclimberken wrote:
I'm kinda wondering if i should go all Mastercams over the TCU's after reading this forum topic..


i'm waiting for the BD x4s to come out this spring;

www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb//camalot-x>>>


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By KENtucky
From Richmond, Ky
Dec 13, 2012
FAIL <br />

Im sure their the bees knees but Im sure the price will keep my interests in the Metolius


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By Jeremy Riesberg
From Boulder, CO
Dec 13, 2012
Palisaid, SD.

The x4s look like they will be amazing. However, because of the amount of milling required to get the springs integrated into the cam heads, they won't be all that cheap. Which sucks for the climbers on a budget.


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 13, 2012
OTL

...and which is why I have mastercams on the small end and not aliens or c3s. MCs and TCUs can be found for $38-42 on sale multiple times throughout the year. C3s were recently $45 though - I prefer MCs for my single set, though.


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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Dec 13, 2012
Imaginate

ilclimberken wrote:
As it stands, i have singles in the c3's 1 & 2, .4. & .5 and doubles up to #2.. One of my .75's is about ready for replacement and i haven't used my .4 much, i do not own the .3BD. One of my partners and I have been climbing in a couple of areas where her orange and red TCU's are very necessary. I was thinking about selling the .4BD and dropping my double .75BD and adding the Orange and Red Tcu's, and then to compliment my C3's, add the Blue and Yellow Mastercams. Anyone have an objection to this? I'm kinda wondering if i should go all Mastercams over the TCU's after reading this forum topic..

That sounds like a very nice rack to me. TCUs vs MC for the Orange and Red isn't going to make that big a difference, The TCUs will fit in some funny placements that the mastercam won't but the MC are more stable and can't be levered out as easily. I'd go for whichever is most on sale.


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