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 ADVANCED
Talk Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Talk T 
Direct North Ridge T 
Empty Rhetoric T 
Hyperbole S 
Look Who's Talking T 
Notalotatalk T 
Over Easy T 
Talkin' Smack S 
Talking Tough T 

Over Easy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ??? 2003?
Page Views: 475
Submitted By: Craig Martin on Jun 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Matt crushin' Over Easy

Description 

Pitch 1: Locate the first bolt about 20' up from the base of the chimney/gully. Climb up past 9 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor, clip the anchor and climb up through a steeper juggy crack. Follow the weakness to the top and a 2 bolt anchor. This is a pretty fun line, with the crux getting to the first bolt, and mostly cruiser climbing after it. Good candidate for someones first trad lead.

Descent: Rappel the route with one rope.

Location 

This is located on the E face of the Talk Buttress. Best approach is from the base of the The Dead Snag, and a short hike up the next gully to the west until it ends in a chimney/gully. It also can be approached from the Talk Buttress proper with a downclimb of the chimney below the start of Look Who's Talking.

Protection 

A bunch of slings/QDs, and a small rack of nuts and cams to 2".


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By Brian in SLC
Jul 10, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Requires two rappels to get off if you're rappelling back down to the base of the route.

Also makes a nice 100 foot sport route as the first fixed anchor is at 100 feet.

I wonder who put this up and when? Well painted chain and bolt hangers. Nice hardware, well placed. Washer stacked anchors have gone the way of the dodo though...
By James Garrett
Jul 10, 2009

Stevo Habovstack. Is it really only 5.7? Man, you honed dudes are getting hard core!
By James Garrett
Jul 11, 2009

I stand corrected...thought you were referring to "The Big Easy".
By Randy Kieliszewski
Dec 4, 2009

I think this is the "The Big Easy" 5.9 ISH , James Garrett how you been, lets climb!!
By Randy Kieliszewski
Dec 4, 2009

Its been awhile, I need pics? The "big easy" is down canyon, from Seldom Scene!!
By Randy Kieliszewski
Dec 4, 2009

Hey climbing world, how the TRuck have you been, I am going to make a resurrgence, beware!! The maker of the
"Nick of Time", retrievable rock anchors that are NOT bolts!! Randy Kieliszewski, Contact (rakffa@hotmail.com) will be bringing the "N.O.T.s" back to LIFE, Cheers!! FUTURE FIRST ASCENTS is ALIVE and well! ROCK ON!!
By John Steiger
Aug 7, 2013

Once near the base area for Dead Snag, you can largely avoid the nasty talus and scree field under Over Easy by bearing right on a good trail and up toward the gully/wide chimney leading to the northwest face of Talk Buttress. This is also the approach to Direct North Ridge, Hyperbole, and Empty Rhetoric.