Anonymous climber works through the "Over" of Over...
On the right hand side of the big roof. Work your way up the low angle face to a big prow on the side of the roof and pull up into the honeycomb holds, then work right along a crack to the chains. The direct start is 9+/10a and the right start maintains 5.9. Awesome route. The overhang moves are not hard, but can be scary if this is your limit.
If memory serves correctly (and I have to dig as the last time I did this was probably well before 2003), there is a large block shaped like a piece of pizza that should be treated with care - it's been there forever, but looks like it could fall anytime as it was separated along three edges.
By Ayescotty9 Jun 10, 2010 rating: 5.95c17VIHVS 5a
An exciting lead for the 5.9 sport climber. Short, fun, and well-protected. Do it.
By Dylan Weldin From: Austin, Texas May 1, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VIHVS 5a
A direct start to this route is also enjoyable. Begin directly below the second bolt and skip the traverse in from the right. 5.9+