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 ADVANCED
Band M (CLOSED)
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Over Done 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Doug Madara & Chris Noonan 1978
Page Views: 356
Submitted By: matthew ritter on Apr 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

A thin steep crack with a few flexible and wafer thin face holds. Tread lightly. A tricky and possibly spooky start protected by a small nut, followed by fun overhanging face climbing and maybe a layback or two leads to a beautiful mantle move from a small left facing corner onto the slopey ledge; though bomber gear is at the climber's hip, a tall climber could hang a draw on the chains above from a jug for the security of a TR on the last moves.

Location 

Located on the far left hand side of Band-M are three short vertical cracks. Over Done is the left hand crack. Rappel from chains.

Protection 

The gear is bomber if you are efficient and strong enough to place it. Bolt anchor and chains. Small to "suasage finger" size cams. A small nut is useful for the first moves off the boulder.


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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Apr 22, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Great Route. Finally Done is classic and understated is great, if a little sandbagged
By burlap submariner
Jun 5, 2010

awesome route, tricky but good gear just where you would need it.
By burlap submariner
Jun 15, 2010

Just so everyone knows the crux flexible flake in the middle of the route hads broken off, the remaining hold is very similar and doesnt really change the character of the route, the hold is just lower and much better bonded to the wall.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jun 15, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

light beers will help that paunch!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 16, 2010

9+, very nice climb