|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Ryan Cantor on Mar 13, 2014|
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By Kirk Brode
Jun 21, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
It is uncommon in the Southeast for routes of this grade (5.7/5.7+) to be this good. It is somewhat unique in this aspect.
This route has multiple large, bomber, plate-like features that can be slung with 48-inch slings. This negates the need for the 5th bolt that was added to the route. The other bolts, except perhaps the third one, can safely be skipped if you use a modest rack. Safely skipping the third bolt requires more skill with placing gear than should be expected from a 5.8 leader in my opinion.
Bring a couple of 48-inch slings as part of your standard Yellow Bluff rack for protecting the numerous horns and plate features. Before you leave home, practice tying clove hitches with one hand (like on a door knob or something) so it's second nature when trying to sling the features on lead. It's something that every climber should know anyway.
A bolt isn't needed where you can sling one (sometimes more) of these bomber horns and plate-like features.