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d. Harvest Moon to the End
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Outsiders 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill, 1981
Page Views: 698
Submitted By: GMBurns on Aug 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Outsiders

A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun climb that follows a right-leaning crack on the side of a massive boulder. Step up onto the medium-sized boulders on the right and step left into the crack. Follow the crack until you step around to easier climbing on the face to the left, near the remains of a bush.

A tree with slings on it is your rappel station.

Location 

Near the end of the Near Trapps, look for a big pillar, the Void block, leaning against the cliff. Void Where Inhibited climbs over the low roof that runs across the front of the block, and a crack splits up its right-facing aspect; this is the route Outsiders.

Protection 

See comments below re: rap anchors


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By GMBurns
Aug 4, 2008

I was so pumped when I did this that I don't remember how nice it was. My partner, who led it, had a lot of fun all the way up. She climbed through the bush and I stepped left around it.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Mar 23, 2009

This is route protects easily and well, the moves are interesting, and if you step left to the face at the obvious break near the dead bush, it is 5.7. It is well worth doing if you are in the area. We just put a new red sling on the belay tree a week ago.
By JSH
Administrator
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is G all the way up. It's also pretty easy for 5.8. It's a very nice route, and often overlooked (often hidden by the tree at its base, actually).
By John Ely
From: DC
Jul 16, 2009

Williams' new Near Trapps guide calls this a 5.7. Stiff at the grade, but the pro just sinks in all the way up.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

super fun and really easy to protect. First pitch might be a nice climb for someone looking to break into the grade.
By Anthony Baraff
From: Paris, France
Aug 12, 2013

I just did this today. I think the bush is definitely dead. I see where it probably once was on the right crack. There is one final move before topping out the cracks that probably makes this 5.7+ to 5.8.
By SethG
May 5, 2014

Hey this is a really fun climb! A very nice 5.7 pitch with great moves up the crack and thrilling exposure near the top. I have two comments:

1. The description above is internally inconsistent. If you get to the top of the crack and go left at the slab you can reach a rappel tree, as mentioned in the body of the description. But then you'd be skipping the best part of the climb. After a few moves up the slab the pitch moves right to continue climbing the exposed right edge of the block to the top. It is easier climbing than below but very airy. Once you top out on the block there is a steel cable anchor around a coffee-table block (mentioned above but not in the body of the description).

2. I DON'T THINK THE STEEL CABLE ANCHOR IS SAFE. The block it is attached to is not that big and it is just a loose block sitting there on top of the formation. Yesterday I started to rap off this anchor but my partner called me back because she felt the block shift as I weighted it. I grabbed onto the shelf and climbed back up, and then we experimented and were able to rock the block without too much effort. I don't know if it will really fly off under body weight but I was pretty creeped out. There are cracks for a gear anchor up there. We chose to lead a pitch downward to the rap tree-- it is a 5.easy downclimb. Then we rapped off the tree. You could also lead the next pitch of Inside Out, which is 5.6 up the face behind the ledge. Though I haven't done this, it looks like a fun pitch, and then if the book is accurate about a belay tree up there you could rap to the lower tree or I think it would be pretty easy to move up and right right to the tree above the Main Line.