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Black Arches Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adirondack Rehabilitation 
Amnesia Chasm 
Amphitheatre Crack 
Birthday Corner 
Black Arch ArÍte 
Broken Broom 
Carpenter & Das 
Critical Crimps 
Dexter's Dugout 
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It 
Four Ounces to Freedom 
Full Recovery 
Gun Show 
Hang Time 
Here I Go Again 
Impulse Drive 
Intensive Care 
Lane Change 
Parallel Passage 
Pinch an Inch 
Plumb Line 
Post Op 
Recuperation Boulevard 
Reducto Adductor 
Scaredy Cat 
Second Job 
Side Show 
Sleepy Hollow 
Suicidal Sydney 
Tilly's Trench 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jay Harrison & Ben Brooke 19th May 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: Apr - Nov
Page Views: 55
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on May 22, 2012
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Ben spans big - 6'6" - to make the low crux traver...


Cleaned up, P2 will be an excellent addition to the options here, though it might better be accessed via a climb more in line with that finish rather than the lower pitch utilized for the first ascent.
The first pitch is a composite of several routes/variations previously climbed; the final pitch breaks through the obvious notch directly above the right-facing corner.
P1: A bouldery move reaches the ledge. Walk right onto the slab of Recuperation Boulevard, using its second bolt for your first pro. Follow RB through the niche to a horizontal crack running right and take this feature right to a left-facing corner (this is the 5.8 variation to RB). Climb the corner to its top and traverse right to an oak tree on a ledge (top of Lane Change).
P2: Climb the large right-facing corner and up the steep headwall, passing the overhang at its top (very committing move) to the right. Either work back up left and traverse to the anchors or walk up and right to the ledge at the top of Post Op.


Same start as Intensive Care: at a tiny left-facing corner at head height 4' right of the rock lying against the face (which marks the start of Carpenter & Das).
Descend via rappel from trees, walk-off up and left to the Diagonal Ramp, or accessing the rappel anchors to climber's left.


Standard Trad rack. The first pitch is a stepped traverse up and right, so use good rope managment skills.

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Ben Brooke tops out on the FA.
Ben Brooke tops out on the FA.
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By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
May 24, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Cleaned up the second pitch will be awesome. I would advise wearing a helmet(which i didn't). I head butted the ceiling a couple times before committing right at the top of the corner. That move is definitly a thrill. Edit. I should clean that second pitch at some pt. linking with estim or another right end climb would make sense too.