BETA PHOTO: Outer Mongolia from the trail. Dos Chichis (5.10a)...
Outer Mongolia is comprised of several large formations north of the trail that leads to the North Wonderland. The Middle Kingdom is south of Outer Mongolia.
Siberia is the largest formation and its southeast face is easily visible from the trail. There are many easy and moderate (5.8 - 5.10-) multipitch face/slab climbs that are well protected by bolts and pitons on the southeast face. These climbs are fun and the view at the top is all encompassing. Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chichis (5.9+) are two of the best here.
Directly north of Siberia are two east - west running gullies; the Siberian Corridor and the Khan Corridor respectively. These gullies are best accessed by scrambling over boulders in a north - south wash directly west of Siberia. Genghis Khan (5.11b) and The Mongolian Lieback (5.12a) are two stellar climbs on an overhanging north face in the Khan Corridor.
More routes for this area are described in The Wonderland Guide by Alan Bartlett.
The approach to Outer Mongolia begins on the Boy Scout Trail to Indian Cove in the Key's Corner parking area. Follow this trail for about two miles (take the right branch heading northeast towards the Wonderland of Rocks) until the large face of Siberia is visible from the trail. Walk north for 1/4 mile to reach the crags.
Either start from the bottom of the seam, or make a couple of delicate face moves (5.8?) to gain the right-trending seam. after 25 feet or so, step right into the next seam over. Angle eases after 30 or 40 feet. Continue up the seam to the chossy headwall with brown patina plates to a ledge with a two-bolt rap station....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
I climbed Irish Toothache on Siberia last weekend. The first piece of protection noted as a Piton (Knifeblade) came out in my hands. Looks like you can get some gear to the right but until then, please note its not a "sport" route....
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Mar 8, 2010
Missing piton on Irish Toothache has been replaced by a bolt;....3/7/10. Quick draws only now....
Climbed in Siberia on 3/30. Updates for "Getting There": There aren't any signs at the parking area for 'Key's Corner'; instead, it's marked as 'Boy Scout Trail'. Hike out follows the trail as described. The turn off for the crag is now denoted by a trail marker that explicitly states there is a climber's trail for 'Outer Mongolia'. Took roughly 40 minutes to get to said marker hiking at a decent pace. Plan 10-30 minutes for the scramble up, depending on how oriented you already are with the area.