Outer Mongolia Rock Climbing
Looking West from Outer Mongolia. Photo by Blitzo.
Outer Mongolia is comprised of several large formations north of the trail that leads to the North Wonderland. The Middle Kingdom is south of Outer Mongolia.
Siberia is the largest formation and its southeast face is easily visible from the trail. There are many easy and moderate (5.8 - 5.10-) multipitch face/slab climbs that are well protected by bolts and pitons on the southeast face. These climbs are fun and the view at the top is all encompassing. Yasmine Bleeth
(5.9) and Dos Chichis
(5.9+) are two of the best here.
Directly north of Siberia are two east - west running gullies; the Siberian Corridor and the Khan Corridor respectively. These gullies are best accessed by scrambling over boulders in a north - south wash directly west of Siberia. Genghis Khan
(5.11b) and The Mongolian Lieback (5.12a) are two stellar climbs on an overhanging north face in the Khan Corridor.
More routes for this area are described in The Wonderland Guide by Alan Bartlett.
The approach to Outer Mongolia begins on the Boy Scout Trail to Indian Cove in the Key's Corner parking area. Follow this trail for about two miles (take the right branch heading northeast towards the Wonderland of Rocks) until the large face of Siberia is visible from the trail. Walk north for 1/4 mile to reach the crags.
Weather station 8.2 miles from here
43 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Outer Mongolia
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Outer Mongolia
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Outer Mongolia:
Toby 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100' Siberia
Featured Route For Outer Mongolia
George's Route (aka Binder) 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Siberia
This route climbs the dark patina-covered, buttress (Buttress 3) just right of the buttress/face containing Dos Chi Chis and Yasmine Bleeth (Buttress 2, which has pointer above it). Climb up past 6 bolts to a ledge [the Cross-Roads Finish, route 477, begins off this ledge]. 2 more bolts protect face to another ledge/block and a 2 bolt anchor/rap (100 feet!).The logical finish to this route is to make a short (35 foot) rap down to the ledge system below, then climb left onto a very narrow and ove...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: The Kamchatka Block, showing Broken Dreams, 11b. C...
BETA PHOTO: Outer Mongolia from the trail. Dos Chichis (5.10a)...
BETA PHOTO: The view from the trail: the large formation on th...
Barrel Cacti thriving on the slopes leading to Out...
Siberia. Photo by Blitzo.
Outer Mongolia-Siberia from West Mongolia.
Watch out for the healthy Jumping Cholla on the ap...
Outer Mongolia panorama, from Land's End. Photo by...
From: Mountain View, CA
Oct 18, 2009
I climbed Irish Toothache on Siberia last weekend. The first piece of protection noted as a Piton (Knifeblade) came out in my hands. Looks like you can get some gear to the right but until then, please note its not a "sport" route....
From: Joshua Tree, California
Mar 8, 2010
Missing piton on Irish Toothache has been replaced by a bolt;....3/7/10. Quick draws only now....
By Nick Y.
Apr 1, 2012
Climbed in Siberia on 3/30. Updates for "Getting There": There aren't any signs at the parking area for 'Key's Corner'; instead, it's marked as 'Boy Scout Trail'. Hike out follows the trail as described. The turn off for the crag is now denoted by a trail marker that explicitly states there is a climber's trail for 'Outer Mongolia'. Took roughly 40 minutes to get to said marker hiking at a decent pace. Plan 10-30 minutes for the scramble up, depending on how oriented you already are with the area.