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Outer Mongolia

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Khan Corridor 
Siberia 
West Mongolia 

Outer Mongolia Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 4,200'
Location: 34.069, -116.1796 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,301
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 16, 2003
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Looking West from Outer Mongolia. Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Outer Mongolia is comprised of several large formations north of the trail that leads to the North Wonderland. The Middle Kingdom is south of Outer Mongolia.

Siberia is the largest formation and its southeast face is easily visible from the trail. There are many easy and moderate (5.8 - 5.10-) multipitch face/slab climbs that are well protected by bolts and pitons on the southeast face. These climbs are fun and the view at the top is all encompassing. Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chichis (5.9+) are two of the best here.

Directly north of Siberia are two east - west running gullies; the Siberian Corridor and the Khan Corridor respectively. These gullies are best accessed by scrambling over boulders in a north - south wash directly west of Siberia. Genghis Khan (5.11b) and The Mongolian Lieback (5.12a) are two stellar climbs on an overhanging north face in the Khan Corridor.

More routes for this area are described in The Wonderland Guide by Alan Bartlett.


Getting There 

The approach to Outer Mongolia begins on the Boy Scout Trail to Indian Cove in the Key's Corner parking area. Follow this trail for about two miles (take the right branch heading northeast towards the Wonderland of Rocks) until the large face of Siberia is visible from the trail. Walk north for 1/4 mile to reach the crags.


Climbing Season



Weather station 8.2 miles from here

43 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',8],['5.8',8],['5.9',9],['5.10',10],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Outer Mongolia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Outer Mongolia:
Yellow Peril   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   West Mongolia : Asian Fever Buttress
Asian Fever   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   West Mongolia : Asian Fever Buttress
Cross-Roads Finish   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Siberia
George's Route (aka Binder)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Siberia
Hollywood Rattlesnake   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Siberia
A Bull with Gas   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Siberia
Yasmine Bleeth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Siberia
Toby   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Siberia
Dos Chi Chis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 240'   Siberia
Love Gas   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Siberia
The Bazooka   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Siberia
Showers With Dad   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Siberia
Leon Redbone   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Siberia
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Outer Mongolia

Featured Route For Outer Mongolia
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Pinar on Cross Roads finish to George's Route.

Cross-Roads Finish 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Siberia
This route begins off the lower left side of the ledge found on George's Route [route 476], after that route's 6th bolt. Probably it is best to climb all of George's Route and then make a short (35 foot) rap back down to the ledge. Head up and left onto the ridge of the very narrow buttress of rock and follow it past 6 bolts (1 of which is entirely unnecessary) and 1 fixed pin. You end at a large ledge in a saddle below and right of the summit of Buttress 2. This route is clearly seen as the na...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Outer Mongolia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Kamchatka Block, showing Broken Dreams, 11b. C...
BETA PHOTO: The Kamchatka Block, showing Broken Dreams, 11b. C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Outer Mongolia from the trail. Dos Chichis (5.10a)...
BETA PHOTO: Outer Mongolia from the trail. Dos Chichis (5.10a)...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the trail: the large formation on th...
BETA PHOTO: The view from the trail: the large formation on th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Barrel Cacti thriving on the slopes leading to Out...
Barrel Cacti thriving on the slopes leading to Out...
Rock Climbing Photo: Siberia
Siberia
Rock Climbing Photo: Siberia. Photo by Blitzo.
Siberia. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Outer Mongolia-Siberia from West Mongolia.
Outer Mongolia-Siberia from West Mongolia.
Rock Climbing Photo: Watch out for the healthy Jumping Cholla on the ap...
Watch out for the healthy Jumping Cholla on the ap...
Rock Climbing Photo: Outer Mongolia panorama, from Land's End. Photo by...
Outer Mongolia panorama, from Land's End. Photo by...
Rock Climbing Photo: follow the signs
follow the signs

Comments on Outer Mongolia Add Comment
Show which comments
By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Oct 18, 2009
I climbed Irish Toothache on Siberia last weekend. The first piece of protection noted as a Piton (Knifeblade) came out in my hands. Looks like you can get some gear to the right but until then, please note its not a "sport" route....
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Mar 8, 2010
Missing piton on Irish Toothache has been replaced by a bolt;....3/7/10. Quick draws only now....
By Nick Y.
Apr 1, 2012
Climbed in Siberia on 3/30. Updates for "Getting There": There aren't any signs at the parking area for 'Key's Corner'; instead, it's marked as 'Boy Scout Trail'. Hike out follows the trail as described. The turn off for the crag is now denoted by a trail marker that explicitly states there is a climber's trail for 'Outer Mongolia'. Took roughly 40 minutes to get to said marker hiking at a decent pace. Plan 10-30 minutes for the scramble up, depending on how oriented you already are with the area.

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