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Outer Mongolia

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Khan Corridor 
Siberia 
West Mongolia 

Outer Mongolia 


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Elevation: 4,200'
Location: 34.069, -116.1796 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 55,453
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 16, 2003
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Looking West from Outer Mongolia.
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Outer Mongolia is comprised of several large formations north of the trail that leads to the North Wonderland. The Middle Kingdom is south of Outer Mongolia.

Siberia is the largest formation and its southeast face is easily visible from the trail. There are many easy and moderate (5.8 - 5.10-) multipitch face/slab climbs that are well protected by bolts and pitons on the southeast face. These climbs are fun and the view at the top is all encompassing. Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chichis (5.9+) are two of the best here.

Directly north of Siberia are two east - west running gullies; the Siberian Corridor and the Khan Corridor respectively. These gullies are best accessed by scrambling over boulders in a north - south wash directly west of Siberia. Genghis Khan (5.11b) and The Mongolian Lieback (5.12a) are two stellar climbs on an overhanging north face in the Khan Corridor.

More routes for this area are described in The Wonderland Guide by Alan Bartlett.


Getting There 

The approach to Outer Mongolia begins on the Boy Scout Trail to Indian Cove in the Key's Corner parking area. Follow this trail for about two miles (take the right branch heading northeast towards the Wonderland of Rocks) until the large face of Siberia is visible from the trail. Walk north for 1/4 mile to reach the crags.


37 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',7],['5.8',7],['5.9',7],['5.10',8],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Outer Mongolia:
Yellow Peril   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   West Mongolia : Asian Fever Buttress
Asian Fever   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   West Mongolia : Asian Fever Buttress
Cross-Roads Finish   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Siberia
George's Route (aka Binder)   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Siberia
Yasmine Bleeth   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Siberia
A Bull with Gas   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Siberia
Toby   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Siberia
Love Gas   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Siberia
Dos Chi Chis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 240'   Siberia
Showers With Dad   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Siberia
Browse More Classics in Outer Mongolia

Featured Route For Outer Mongolia
"Asian Fever". <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Asian Fever 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Asian Fever Buttress
This fun climb goes up the face just right of a crescent crack ("Yellow Peril") on the left portion of the south face. Climb brown, featured rock to a bolt. Continue up slab passing six more bolts. Cracks on top for placing anchors. A fixed pin and bolt rappel station is located on a block, down and left.This route is rated 5.8 in Vogel's Joshua Tree West guide, but it's more like 5.6. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Outer Mongolia
Photos of Outer Mongolia Slideshow Add Photo
The Kamchatka Block, showing Broken Dreams, 11b. Copyright 2004, Randy V.
BETA PHOTO: The Kamchatka Block, showing Broken Dreams, 11b. C...
Outer Mongolia from the trail. Dos Chichis (5.10a) climbs the outer face of Siberia, the large light-colored formation on the far right.
BETA PHOTO: Outer Mongolia from the trail. Dos Chichis (5.10a)...
The view from the trail: the large formation on the left is Siberia, while the Ivory Tower is visible as the leaning pillar just right of center.
BETA PHOTO: The view from the trail: the large formation on th...
Barrel Cacti thriving on the slopes leading to Outer Mongolia.
Barrel Cacti thriving on the slopes leading to Out...
Siberia
Siberia
Siberia. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Siberia.
Photo by Blitzo.
Outer Mongolia-Siberia from West Mongolia.
Outer Mongolia-Siberia from West Mongolia.
Watch out for the healthy Jumping Cholla on the approach to Siberia/Outer Mongolia.
Watch out for the healthy Jumping Cholla on the ap...
Outer Mongolia panorama, from Land's End. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Outer Mongolia panorama, from Land's End.
Photo by...
follow the signs
follow the signs
Comments on Outer Mongolia Add Comment
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By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Oct 18, 2009

I climbed Irish Toothache on Siberia last weekend. The first piece of protection noted as a Piton (Knifeblade) came out in my hands. Looks like you can get some gear to the right but until then, please note its not a "sport" route....

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Mar 8, 2010

Missing piton on Irish Toothache has been replaced by a bolt;....3/7/10. Quick draws only now....

By Nick Y.
Apr 1, 2012

Climbed in Siberia on 3/30. Updates for "Getting There": There aren't any signs at the parking area for 'Key's Corner'; instead, it's marked as 'Boy Scout Trail'. Hike out follows the trail as described. The turn off for the crag is now denoted by a trail marker that explicitly states there is a climber's trail for 'Outer Mongolia'. Took roughly 40 minutes to get to said marker hiking at a decent pace. Plan 10-30 minutes for the scramble up, depending on how oriented you already are with the area.