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The Upper Wall
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Aphrodite T 
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Gymnastics T 
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Maria's Farewell T 
Outer Limits T 
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Outer Limits 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Scott Gilbert & Tom Pulaski
Page Views: 550
Submitted By: phil broscovak on Apr 8, 2008

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Description 

This is a serious route of thin crack and face up a beautiful face.


Location 

This is on the first buttress Upper Wall directly above 3 Pin Crack.


Protection 

Small, wired nuts and small, springy things.



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By phil broscovak
Apr 8, 2008

One of the most slack jawed ascents I ever saw was the 1st free ascent of this incredible route.
Scotty was working the "Whiskey Crack-esque" moves in the shallow crack and not finding much in the way of substantial protection. This was in the days of EBs, stoppers and hexes. He was at least 40' above his only good gear (a medium sized stopper) when it started to rain. All of us 'ground crew' saw doom approaching. But Scotty never backed down. He always said things would look better one move higher. None of us could believe it when he stepped out of the crack and fired the blank face to the top. Later he said the crack was pouring water and there wasn't any pro anyway so he just decided to run it out on the face to the top. Absolutely amazing!
Had he slipped it was a terminal fall for sure. Scotty was one in a million (or perhaps one in a billion).

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jun 27, 2008

Phil, I'm not familiar with 3-pin crack. Where is this in relation to say, Dunn's?

By phil broscovak
Jul 1, 2008

Scott, Three Pin is a fabulous route that I am sure you must have done. It is the prominent, right-facing dihedral about 50 feet right of Christene's Dream and about 100 feet left of Gymnastics.

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jul 1, 2008

Ahhh, that dihedral, the name crack threw me. I think we used to call it "The dihedral left of Gymnastics with the pins in it" :)