Out with the boys again
||Trad, 4 pitches, 350', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||Jamie Savage, Tad Welch & Bill Widrig, 5/13/86|
|Season: ||Spring to fall|
|Page Views: ||2,549|
|Submitted By: ||proto on May 29, 2009|
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Climb the very nice zigzag crack, first straight up then angling right and finally hand traverse left. At the end of the crack traverse a steep slab left towards a belay in the trees, bellow an overhang (5.7). Past the overhang following a hand crack and traverse a section with huge blocks, belay on a ledge on the right (5.7). Climb the straight hand crack above the ledge to a right facing corner, follow the corner to a belay in the trees (5.7). Traverse the trees to the left and climb a nice knoby face to other trees. From there you can continue climbing moderate slabs (and bush sections!) to the top or rappel down.
From the lowest point of the cliff (bellow the ramp of the diagonal) follow the base of the cliff uphill to the left, past a huge dihedral then bellow an enormous detached flake and an obvious right facing corner. Behind the corner locate a slab with a single crack zigzagging.
Coming up P3. We linked P2 and P3 which made for a...
Another of P3 (or P2 if you link them). Another gr...
From: North Jersey
Oct 5, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The approach from the Diagonal is steeper than it appears and there is no flat spot to sit comfortably or rest your bags (mine nearly slid back down the slope). We finally rested them on some bushes, but consider slinging a tree - especially if it's wet or with leaves.
Other than that, a fantastic crack climb on a "east coast alpine" wall. Worth doing if you're already there. Found protection closer to G.