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 ADVANCED
The Bastille - W Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Faith T 
Breakfast in Bed T 
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 
Chance of Rain T,TR 
Cream T 
Hair City T 
Implied Consent T,TR 
Let Them Eat Cake T 
Neon Lights T 
New Chautauqua T 
Out to Lunge T 
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 
Rain T 
Serengeti Spaghetti T 
Stem Gem T 
Sunset Boulevard S 
Sunshine Daydream T 
Voodoo T 
West Arete T 
West Buttress T 
West Face [Bastille] T 
West Side aka West Chimney T 
Your Mother S 

Out to Lunge ... with Dessert 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 435
Submitted By: Patrik on Sep 4, 2012

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

As the name implies, this is a short variation of Out To Lunge, and it is pretty sweet....

Follow the first pitch of Out To Lunge to the triangular roof. Start the leftward traverse, but after a few feet, pull through the roof diagonaling up and right staying 6-10 feet left of the route on the right (New Chautauqua). Continue up a short slab. Pull over a bulge and then onwards to the walk-off ledge. If the gear is a bit puzzling at the roof crux, you could complete the leftward traverse, place gear, and then come back to pull the roof.
With shorter wingspan, the rating could be a bit harder, maybe 5.10a-.

Protection 

Bring the same as for Out To Lunge.


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