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The Main Wall
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Out Ridin' Fences 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Pat McCarthy, Phillip Hranicka, 4/06
Page Views: 1,083
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Mar 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is super-neglected. The crux is mostly cranking hard on fingerlocks so go get it! Climb splitter fingers and thin hands to a rest. Figure out the funky sequence to the spectacular Wartley's Revenge-esque jug climbing and finish up the crux, splitter finger and tips crack. Awesome!

Location 

This is pretty much the furthest right route on the Main Wall. There are others further, but they are of a very different character and not as classic. Hike past Time Bomb and locate the splitter crack surrounded by tiny seams. Scramble up and right to access the spacious belay ledge.

Protection 

A double rack from BD. 0.75 to green C3 plus a 1 and 2 should be more than adequate to stitch this thing up.


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By Jon Rhoderick
Sep 9, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great route, can definitely be climbed safely with a double rack. Save a .5 or metolius orange size for your last piece, and use your purple metolius/green C3 sized pieces after the juggy sequence, that's the only part that feels punchy.