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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afterthought TR 
Anduril S,TR 
Art Imitates Life S 
Art of the Pissant S 
Big Kahuna S 
Black Rider S,TR 
Caradhras T 
Cirith Ungol T 
Dimrill Stair T 
Dwarrowdelf T 
Easy Rider S,TR 
Fangorn Crack T,TR 
Fool's Gold S 
Gandalf T 
Glamdring S 
Isengard S 
Karmic Relief S 
Khazaddum S 
Little Bruiser T 
Lord of the Rings S 
Marranon T,TR 
Merryanne TR 
Middle Finger TR 
Nameless Left of Dimrill Stair T,S 
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 
Orange Sunshine S 
Orc T 
Orthanc S 
Out on a Whim T 
Radagast T 
Risky Business T,S 
Rock Wrestling T 
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 
Room With A View T 
Sam I Am S 
Shadowfax T 
Shelob's Lair T 
Slice & Dice T 
Smeagol's Surprise T 
Strider TR 
Strider Face TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Out on a Whim 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Lead bolt 1998, anchor older.
Page Views: 959
Submitted By: mschlocker on Jan 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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past the bulge--the features seen are decieving, t...

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Pull past a large bulge/roof right of a bolt (crux #1). Head up and left to a crack in a dihedral. The crack thins down and provides crux #2, leading to easier climbing above. The climb is pretty physical and seems to really get your whole body involved at the cruxes.


Far right side. Head up and right from the top of the right approch trail. Scrabmle up to a ledge where you will see the lone bolt on a bulge. This can be easily TRd off the bolts and it is advised to use a .5-1" piece as a directional at the top of the crack.


1 bolt and small to 1" gear to a 3 bolt anchor. If you want protection before the bolt bring a #3 or #4 and a medium to long sling.

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By jeffblankman
From: San Diego, Ca
Mar 9, 2015

Great climb.
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