Out on a Limb
|847 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10b/c [details]|
|FA: ||Alf Randall and Dave Tucker, 2/87|
|Season: ||Gets sunshine|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Dec 27, 2002|
Chris working through the steep bit (c) Scott Nomi...
This route lies on the right (east)- most solid buttress of the South Face of the Echo Cove Rocks. It is approached via a few slab moves to a small ledge. Climb this line of 6 bolts on the rounded, bulging arete to the top. The crux is down low, starting off of the ledge with a huge high-step to get feet above the bulge. The handholds here are small and sharp. The route felt like 5.10c to me, but will be far harder for those far shorter. Flexibility might make up for height until such point that the good hand-hold can not be reached.
The belay up top is well set with large cams and/or hexes and small tricams. There are other possibilities too.
To descend, walk/scramble off to the climber's right (east) then south by a big "potato-chip" looking boulder, and the back West toward the base.
6 bolts, pro to 3" for an anchor
I take no credit for this photo as a friend "Karni...
Tony Bubb gets established on the main face of 'Ou...
Tony Bubb is sitting 'Out On A Limb' (10b sandbag)...
Chris is Out on a Limb (c) Scott Nomi.
|Comments on Out on a Limb
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 8, 2004
The start as mentioned by Tony B's discription is truly the shit. Height, flexability, bad gas, and a zit or two makes it difficult at best. Beyond that it remains tough but fun as all get out. There is a small boulder off to the right when facing your partner that can easily and safely be slung for an anchor. Pro works as well in the mid sizes in particular. I lean towards the 5.10c a bit that Tony spoke of. Either that or 5.9+ (Jtree special)
From: Westminster, CO
May 20, 2004
Big D and I did this on top rope yesterday. Cams, tri-cams work fine.You can place most any size somewhere as well as slinging an area or two. I have led this thing twice and for some reason had more difficulty doing it on a top rope. That makes no sense to me. But little does. The weather has been perfect. Nice that so many have left........
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 4, 2007
5.9 A0. Move off the ledge is a showstopper if you can't reach the ok pinch/sidepull. Stretch, grow a few inches, etc, or do what I did, grab that first bolt and yard through. Remainder of the climbing was generic Josh low angle face/slab.
|By Jared Danziger|
From: New York, NY
Jan 22, 2009
Vogel is right, the start is basically impossible if you are under 5'11. Worth aiding through the first move to superfun climbing above.
|By Jeff Dunbar|
From: Carrboro, NC
Mar 16, 2009
Tried this for the first time today. I'm 5'8" and the start would require me to highstep my foot to my navel and then stand on it. With no hands. 10b? Sheesh...
From: Novato/SF, CA
Nov 26, 2009
Hard to start if you are shorter. When I got to the scary mantle I realized why the climb was dubbed Out on a Limb. Not much fun falling from the mantle above your bolt.
From: San Francisco
Nov 30, 2009
Fortunately I'm 6'4" and felt that the start was, although powerful, very doable. This route was thrilling and balancy at the surprise crux mantle just below the last bolt.
Mantle was a bit scary and bolt is ~3ft below your feet when making the move.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 27, 2009
I give it 5.10b A0 - couldn't boulder through the opening move and had to use the first bolt for aid, but I'm old and stiff and high steps are a thing of the past, not sure it would've made any difference anyway as I'm 5'-11".
Crux reminded me of the crux of Figures on a Landscape.
Will S; low angle? Maybe you did it before the big 'quake...?
It's a great route.
|By Joe Hunt|
From: Long Beach, CA
Mar 18, 2011
10b cheating. I'm 5'10" but with a 6" cheater stone 6'4". ;) Largo said it was "a jug haul."
|By T.J. Esposito|
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 9, 2012
Took me a good 20 mins to figure out the easiest start beta, keep reading if you want it- if you can deathgrip half-tips crimps as sidepulls you can high-step the skirt (which looks like the most obvious solution); otherwise, pinch/hug the skirt (there are some ridges you can undercling on) and build your left leg up on the ramp underneath the bulge. Then the fun part, right heel-hook next to the polished notch in the skirt and that will keep you on the rock (in addition to pulling right-hand on the sidepull crimps) while you reach up to the little bulgy flake thing.
I'm not usually one for posting advanced beta but if you get frustrated, this is what worked best for me (and didn't feel impossibly hard either).
If you're TRing, you can pull up on a draw on the first bolt, and clip the rope on second bolt to have a nice directional to prevent swinging if you slip).
From: Riverside, Ca
Feb 23, 2013
5.10bish with A0 for the first bolt. I'm 5'6 and I can see the move going if I was over 6 foot tall and can reach the left hand side pull and step on the skirt