Covered in Eric Bjorstad's book, I stumbled upon this climb. It is about 1/4" up (west) of the concentration of slab routes lower in the canyon.
Ascend a delightful finger crack to a ledge. This crack faces east. Above the crack clip a few bolts then move up and left into a corner. Another clip and one or two pieces of gear will get you to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. This route is surprisingly good. Except for a sugary section halfway up, the route is quite clean. With more travel, it'll get even cleaner. There are two slab moves.
I personally felt this to be better than Carter's 5.8 dihedral and Luhrs Route.
Small to mid-size cams up to 2", quickdraws, one rope.
Janet climbing just above the first bolt. The rou...
|Comments on Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire
|By Scott Conner|
From: Lyons, CO
Jun 9, 2003
This is a great climb to hit on the way to or from Independence Monument. It's about a 5 minute scramble off the trail. I thought clipping, and moving past the first bolt was the crux. Be careful near the top, the rock becomes fragile and somewhat loose.
|By Guy Lord|
Oct 6, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I put this up with my father as a belay slave (it was after the time he had stopped climbing, but he still enjoyed coming out to watch). There used to be a huge flake at the little ledge just after the crux. I cleaned this, along with some other crumbling stuff on lead, which made the first ascent rather interesting. He still recalls having hundred pound blocks landing next to him on the ground. I tried to make this route as safe as possible, while maintaining a traditional asthetic. However, anyone who climbs in the Monument must keep in mind the fact that rock there is very rotten. For those who haven't climbed much in the area BE CAREFULL! The thing that always bothered me about the climb was the descent. If you try to rap straight down from the belay station on a single rope, you'll have a little drop at the bottom.
|By Ben Boykin|
From: Cheyenne, WY
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
The initial is crack is worthy of 4 stars, but then the serious face comes. I didn't have the whatfor to continue beyond the first bolt. Seems like it may actually be the "second bolt" since Desert Rock III was published. I saw what appeared to be a broken-off bolt between the end of the crack and the reachy first bolt.
|By george wilkey|
From: travelers rest sc
Jun 13, 2013
After the initial crack, this route had a couple of moves that seemed stiffer than 5.9. Well protected and a fun route!