Out of Sticks 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | lightner jr, schoffl and schoffl |
| Submitted By: | richard magill on Apr 12, 2007 |
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done to replace suspect bolts with titanium glue-ins.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description Awesome steep line that I found to be extremely challenging. The main thing I noted was that it simply did not look probable to pull this off at a 12a grade. You get under a bunch of roofs and hard looking stuff but if you just force yourself to believe, you will find a nice 5.11 (or maybe 12a) sequence to bring you up to the next improbable stance. Keep believing!
Location This is one route to the right of Monkey Love, which is fairly easy to spot because it is all threads.
Protection 9 clips to anchors, including 1 or 2 threads. My guide indicates this was last rebolted in 1997, but when I did it in 2005 I didn't note any apparent rust on the bolts.
| Comments on Out of Sticks |
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By Matt Robertson
Apr 12, 2007
| New bolts as of early '07.
Devious and sustained, with multiple cruxes.
Perhaps harder than Caveman and nearly as good. |
By Aaron Hartig
May 18, 2011
rating: 5.12b
| Found this route to be quite strong for the grade. maybe it was because i didnt have any lunch but none the less amazing route great crux, or 2 |
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