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Walt's Rib
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NFL Dyno 
Out of Site 

Out of Site 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c Hueco: V2- Font: 5+

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c Hueco: V2- Font: 5+ [details]
FA: Justin Edl, 2003, unless Goodman did it before that
Page Views: 560
Submitted By: Brian Scoggins on Jul 31, 2007
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Description 

Awesome, overhanging, tight hands corner. Start either from the sit start on good hand jams with one foot on an obvious foothold to the left, or start standing up from good jams with feet whereever it seems reasonable. Jam up the crack, past the horizontal break to the second ledge, where you top out and walk off right. One move of rattly fingers/lieback marks the crux. Classic.


Location 

Looking up towards Walt's Rib, this is on the second tier, just about even with the right edge of the first tier.


Protection 

2 pads (or 1 pad and a spotter), as there's an unfriendly rock directly underneath the crux.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 29, 2010
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 31, 2007

Davin's book calls it 5.11b, but that's probably a little generous. Also, I can't remember who did the first ascent on this, but that information is easily filled in. I know jammer knows.

By Jason Funk
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 2, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c  V2- 5+

Really unique for Vedauwoo- no tape needed, splitter hand crack. Felt easier but that's probably because it's so clean. The crux for me was transitioning to the wider crack up top, go deep.

By Justin Edl
Oct 3, 2008

The 5.11 rating is if you jam it straight on, with the crux being a short section of ringlocks a little before the horizontal. Liebacking the crux knocks the difficulty down a good bit.

By awesomejacksonhole
From: Laramie, WY
Dec 22, 2008

If you layback the whole thing, it's 10b unless you layback it to the right in which case it is 10c for the onsight or 10a-ish for the redpoint. If you jam it straight in, it is five eleven a slash b.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Dec 23, 2008

Layback to the right? That doesn't even make any sense, considering its a corner, not a splitter.

Whatever.

By awesomejacksonhole
From: Laramie, WY
Dec 28, 2008

No, Brian. Even a corner can be laybacked either direction. Perhaps you could try more sit ups as laybacking against a corner requires extreme body tension. Or I would suggest more pull ups to increase upper body strength. Good luck! -AJ

By awesomejacksonhole
From: Laramie, WY
Dec 28, 2008

It is an unusual technique that does require a lot of body tension. I figured it out in a gym where there was only one crack that was in a corner. For variety I started laybacking it both ways. Cheers! -AJ

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Dec 30, 2008

Now I'm starting to wonder who you are. I think we've met, but maybe I'm mistaken. Will the real awesomejack[son]hole please stand up?

By Justin Edl
Jul 4, 2009

I want in on the action!

FA: Justin Edl, 2003, unless Goodman did it before that. He does have at least one problem in the area....

By molony
Aug 4, 2009

Wow, beautiful. Definitely helps to know how to ringlock, which I do not. Shaky, precarious rattly fingers all the way!

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Jun 29, 2010

Awesome, it's like climbing a route without having to plug gear!