Pull a chalked-up boulder problem out the low roof and climb up slightly right of the arete. Low crux, fun moderate climbing above.
Starts just right of You Want It... Look for the chalked-up holds out the low roof.
Light rack. Bolt anchors at the top.
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Jun 15, 2008
Looks cool but its a one move boulder problem with trivial climbing above.
May 16, 2010
Two or three bold moves at the bottom and the rest is a 5.7. This and other routes to climber's right on The Brain formation dry out quickly after a rain.
|By Shawn Heath|
From: Forchheim, Germany
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This is definitely a "one-move wonder." Moderately difficult start off of jugs to more jugs until you get solid feet. The fall is really minor, so don't worry about placing gear (I placed a pink tri-cam because no climbs complete until you sink the pink!) until you get up there. After that, I got some nut placements and maybe a shaky cam. I wouldn't recommend toting many cams up there because it's difficult to find good placements for them. It's easier to find nut placements. I also slung a small horn with some webbing.