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The Brain
Routes Sorted
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Brain Storm 
Brain Teasers 
Brain Tweezers 
Brain Wave 
Butta 
Chunky Munky 
Journey to the Center of the Brain 
M.E.N.S.A. 
Out of Mind 
Travisty, The 
Whiny Bugs 
You Want It, You Got It 

Out of Mind 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John Burcham, Andrew Barry 1986
Page Views: 333
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 9, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Description 

Pull a chalked-up boulder problem out the low roof and climb up slightly right of the arete. Low crux, fun moderate climbing above.


Location 

Starts just right of You Want It... Look for the chalked-up holds out the low roof.


Protection 

Light rack. Bolt anchors at the top.



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By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 15, 2008

Looks cool but its a one move boulder problem with trivial climbing above.

By attila
May 16, 2010

Two or three bold moves at the bottom and the rest is a 5.7. This and other routes to climber's right on The Brain formation dry out quickly after a rain.

By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This is definitely a "one-move wonder." Moderately difficult start off of jugs to more jugs until you get solid feet. The fall is really minor, so don't worry about placing gear (I placed a pink tri-cam because no climbs complete until you sink the pink!) until you get up there. After that, I got some nut placements and maybe a shaky cam. I wouldn't recommend toting many cams up there because it's difficult to find good placements for them. It's easier to find nut placements. I also slung a small horn with some webbing.