Out Of Limits  5.10d R

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.10c/d [details] FA:  D. Ferguson & S. Wood, 1971 Submitted By:  Tony B on May 26, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closure In Effect MORE INFO >>> The seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1, 2013 through July 31, 2013 at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Your appreciation for this route will be directly related to your appreciation for thin slab. I personally liked it.

Go to the Blob Slab, the light-colored slab at the left hand side of the base of the right hand 'half' of Blob Rock. Walk down to pass two trees and a 2'X2' block of rock at the base that looks like a Tetris puzzle piece stuck to the cliff. Maybe 8' right of there there is a vegetated ledge (left-most of two) and a thin right-leaning seam going up from the right edge of it. Start there and force a line straight up the vertical face to the left hand edge of a flake (you can cheat right and clip a bolt if you like)

I found the most engaging start (5.11-) to be to start with the right hand near said seem on a tiny, sharp crimper, and the left thunb PUSHING on a horizontal that slopes away. The feet are kinda bad, but you can go directly up from there, and it is good fun.

Up above the bolt that you probably ignored (it was to your right) there is a little roof-like feature. There may be a placement in that for you if you are crafty with the small nuts. Pull up straight through that and head up toward the solitary remaining bolt on the face, then up from there to the anchors on top.

Of the routes on the face, regardless of the grade, this one is probably the most runout. Be careful.

Protection 

Uh, an unprotected crux 8' up, a second crux a little higher, then few RPs or HBs before a 5.10- move, then a bolt, then a larger nut up higher on 5.8+ terrain.

It is easily TR'ed from the 2 bolt-and-chain anchors above the route, which are accessed most easily from the route "Left Roof" which I'd call 5.7, S-.

Photos of Out Of Limits Slideshow

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Phil leading what we thought was the route.