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Blob Slab
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A Hike for Y2K 
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Of Human Bondage 
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Out Of Limits 

Out Of Limits 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: D. Ferguson & S. Wood, 1971
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Tony B on May 26, 2002
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  • Description 

    Your appreciation for this route will be directly related to your appreciation for thin slab. I personally liked it.

    Go to the Blob Slab, the light-colored slab at the left hand side of the base of the right hand 'half' of Blob Rock. Walk down to pass two trees and a 2'X2' block of rock at the base that looks like a Tetris puzzle piece stuck to the cliff. Maybe 8' right of there there is a vegetated ledge (left-most of two) and a thin right-leaning seam going up from the right edge of it. Start there and force a line straight up the vertical face to the left hand edge of a flake (you can cheat right and clip a bolt if you like)

    I found the most engaging start (5.11-) to be to start with the right hand near said seem on a tiny, sharp crimper, and the left thunb PUSHING on a horizontal that slopes away. The feet are kinda bad, but you can go directly up from there, and it is good fun.

    Up above the bolt that you probably ignored (it was to your right) there is a little roof-like feature. There may be a placement in that for you if you are crafty with the small nuts. Pull up straight through that and head up toward the solitary remaining bolt on the face, then up from there to the anchors on top.

    Of the routes on the face, regardless of the grade, this one is probably the most runout. Be careful.


    Protection 

    Uh, an unprotected crux 8' up, a second crux a little higher, then few RPs or HBs before a 5.10- move, then a bolt, then a larger nut up higher on 5.8+ terrain.

    It is easily TR'ed from the 2 bolt-and-chain anchors above the route, which are accessed most easily from the route "Left Roof" which I'd call 5.7, S-.



    Photos of Out Of Limits Slideshow Add Photo
    Phil leading what we thought was the route.
    Phil leading what we thought was the route.
    Comments on Out Of Limits Add Comment
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    By Rodger Raubach
    Mar 12, 2011
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

    Most reasonably sane climbers do this as a toprope. It's a great trainer that way.

    By rob bauer
    From: Golden, CO
    Oct 16, 2011

    We did the left hand start today and it seemed like we followed the line in Bob's book (#57) pretty closely and found it to be adequately protected with a a range of small and medium gear. Good climb! (The right hand start, in retrospect, seems to be what Tony describes above.)