This classic line shares the first bolt with Try To Be Hip (5.12a) and then soars straight up to a roof with a bolt. Before clipping the bolt at the roof with a 2' runner you must make difficult moves with microstoppers below you. Another crux is encountered after a short traverse right around the roof to a fixed piton. Finish up and right to anchors.
Mostly very small to medium stoppers are essential for protection. Very small to medium cams supplement the stopper placements. Rappel from anchors with webbing.
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 20, 2007
I agree this seems hard for 11a. Perhaps due to the 3 RP's I had to use to protect the first crux! I was stoked to clip that bolt at the roof. The crux after the roof isn't very hard once you figure it out, but its super devious. I must've been up there for 20 minutes(while on-sighting) climbing up and down, trying to figure out how to do that move.
This route also has a fixed pin protecting the upper crux (above the roof bolt). Its a BD Lost arrow. Its pretty rusty, but it looked solid to me (though I didn;t weight it).
|By Max Tepfer|
From: Bend, OR
Aug 21, 2012
Just took a wing on this and here are my thoughts:
Firstly: Awesome route!
"Before clipping the bolt at the roof with a 2' runner you must make difficult moves with microstoppers below you." This simply isn't true. Granted, there are some tiny gear placements early on in the pitch, (where the climbing's relatively straight-forward) but at the crux, (before the bolt) I whipped onto the bomberest #9 (blue BD) stopper of life.
"I agree this seems hard for 11a." Yep. Super-devious indeed. There were definitely some key holds that I missed through ignorance and/or lack of tick-marks/chalk.