Out For Blood
|363 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10a [details]|
|FA: ||FRA: Dustin Hoover, Christopher Powers. September 2012.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Rudeboy on Oct 19, 2012|
BETA PHOTO: Out For Blood. Start not seen.
Excellent route. Offers a variety of climbing techniques. Bullet stone! Pitch one and two have definetely been climbed before, but 3 and 4 looked like it was all on us.
P1: Climb white rock Starting on a boulder to your right. A short and easy runout above the boulder will gain a left treding crack into the corner. Build a belay above scrub oak. 100ft.
P2: Now on red bullet stone, Climb through a short but perfect,somewhat mossy lieback corner. I climbed the crack on right, you could take an offwidth 4ft left. Gain easy lowangle ground, stay left toward an akward squeeze chimney and pull through it. Build a belay on big ledge.
P3: The money pitch! Start chimney or face climb on the crack on the right. Sick moves around a scrub oak to an excellent crack. Build a belay near another scrub 100ft. The crack on the left has been climbed before, as we could see a bolt about 40 feet up in an offwidth chimney section.
P4:Finish up easier ground and top out!
This route is on the dark blood red wall just south of eagles nest area.(north facing). Slick looking varnished Twin cracks about halfway up cant be missed. Bring alot of webbing, hope your not scared of trees and saplings for descent.
We did it on a rack to 3" with one each 4" and 5" cams. No Bolts or fixed gear. Bring plenty of webbing.
Chris following the first pitch. September 2012.
Chris following Pitch 1.
Start of Pitch 2.
|Comments on Out For Blood
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 26, 2012
Nice looking route. Cool to see some people getting after it down there sans bolts.