|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 530', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Bradley White and Ryan Barber, June, August, 2011|
|Submitted By:||bradley white on Jun 17, 2011|
|Comments on Our Mine's I||Add Comment|
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By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Aug 25, 2011
Pitch 1 (5.5 R): Start with the climb "Bull Dog" and climb up and right to a two bolt belay station just underneath roof with "diving board". Extend all slings. 6 bolts. (160 ft).
Pitch 2 (5.9): Climb up under roof. Traverse left around and on top of "diving board" and up to ledge. Continue up left facing crack corner, traverse left to grass ledge, and move up and right onto face. Climb to face and traverse right to anchor ledge. 8 bolts (50 ft).
Pitch 3 (5.7): Climb left up vertical crack for 30 feet. Traverse left past pin. Climb up another 40 feet past second pin to belay ledge under dihedral v-groove. (100 ft).
Pitch 4 (5.9+): Climb through dihedral v-groove and exit right onto face after fixed nut. Climb up to belay ledge (1 pin, 1 bolt). (30 ft).
Pitch 5 (5.8): Climb up finger crack through over ceiling, and follow the crack up and right to pin. Traverse right onto face, and up right side of face via crack to second pin. Move left up steep slab and back right to third pin before belay ledge (pin / fixed stopper). (80 ft).
Pitch 6 (5.8+): Careful climbing to stay on route (solid rock) up and around "Diving Board #2" (large). Climb up to ceiling, and exit left. Climb through left-facing wall. Summit onto moss, and exit right through trees and bushes into alcove. Belay off of solid pine inside alcove. (110 ft).
Finish: Make your way up and right through alcove to meet Whitney-Gilman decent trail. (30 ft).
By dave custer
Oct 1, 2011
|Pitches 3 and up have been climbed previously, free and clean. The lower diving board pitch can be avoided on the right via cracks in a left facing dihedral/flake followed by a flirt with the Muir before stepping left to a platform beside thin cracks in good rock. Up to good ledges, then diagonal left to the crack below the kinematic coupler pitch (V-groove). The left crack below the kinematic coupler is fun & similarly difficult to the right, though the left's cleaver flake is a little perplexing.|
By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
Jul 15, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
|Traversed right to this after failing to find (or perhaps understand) the second pitch of Odessa Steps. Some bits of nice climbing, especially the sharp dihedral; also a lot of loose rock. Plenty of gear placements, but often only in fractured rock of uncertain stability.|
By bradley white
Jul 28, 2013
|Apology for the criticism post. Its gone. I am not good at reading. I read into writing what is not written, often. We all have our flaws and one of mine is reading. This area of Cannon has many options for climbing. Exploration for variations and a couple of new routes are available. Area is short in length and altitude compared to north face Eiger. I think area is good practice for the longest routes on mountains like the Eiger north face. I don't know because have not been on the Eiger. I know only here have I trashed ropes like nowhere else from loose rock dropping on the rope. Most climbing is not technically difficult. The potential for difficulty exist and most starts about 200 feet up. It is an area hundreds of feet wide like an apron of clean Rock from Muir Buttress to Our Mines I. It has little natural protection too nearly none. I'm at a really weak climbing ability again. I will only be doing exploration of this area until its been thoroughly explored. Probably after a few more years. Its fits into my mood since I am climbing poorly I am doing extreme route finding climbing. To make sense to my madness is I prefer to stop climbing working on something extreme. Ryan barber and I are ready to make the big push to get to the top of probably the longest length climb in this area. When I get done with our new route I'll post it.|