|0. Henderson's Buttress
To read further details from Ryan and his video see 'Bulldog'. This was our project above 'Bulldog'. It ascends the break above the 3 bolt belay ledge, moves right on ledge to move left and up face to another break in the wall. After this move right to a two bolt belay and done rope solo (160ft). Go up short wall to face climb up to being below the ceiling that I led up and left next time with Ryan to a block protruding out of the ceiling ( the diving board). The diving board is a wedged block held in place by tremendous pressure only on its inside right side. It is a keystone to the entire ceiling. Stand on the diving board (crampy) and enter a crack system moving up and slightly left to two bolts. From there clip bolt higher right and move left (5.8) unto grass clumped ledge. Go straight up past two more bolts (5.9 crux) and move right to do traverse (5.8+) and step up right to last bolt before a decent belay ledge right (one bolt and good crack). Bolts were placed standing in sling to drill and then free climbed up past bolts (5.9). I was in shock from leading this pitch because I lost my balance said, "falling" and didn't fall. Traverse is run out without the smallest cam to use in a crack. With that approximate size cam the traverse is well protected. From belay ledge Ryan ascended left up a nice crack and when the crack ended he moved left and up after placing two good pins. Go up slightly left from pins passing many hidden great handholds with good medium stopper protection. Lots of (5.7) and some (5.8) moves. When this 80ft. Headwall stops enter the corner to head up to a stunning inverted dihedral of 15ft. (5.9+ or 5.9/A1) and climbed before by Dave Custer and other's climbing on from possibly Odessa Steps. The finish to the cliff? Possibly our finish. The way we came up its better to belay below the dihedral because no rope drag makes a big difference in doing the crux. Exit dihedral and climb face on right side to move up on foot holds above to the belay passing two okay pins and a bolt 12ft. We ran out of time to go further and this is the end of the sport climbing. Fourth trip- Alpine climbing by going up directly above belay after the dihedral to finger crack through ceiling (5.8) or get above ceiling by right side traverse back left (5.7). Continue up and right to enter the right wall of a narrow ridge. Climb chock filled crack near the ridge's edge. Move left pass pin (pin was tested by me falling onto it when I messed up the friction step up on first attempt) and friction (5.8 crux) up to mantle higher onto ledge. Go up and right passing above large rock on ledge (pin) to belay ledge (fixed stopper and pin) and rappel is doable here. From belay move up right and back left to go directly up to crack corner below second diving board (5.8). After crack corner move pass the diving board on the inside of it. Move up to ceiling crack (5.8+ crux) and move left around ceiling and go up to ascend cracks in wall to the right at the top of the ridge. Many rocks were removed on lead and seconding. There is much loose rock on the last pitch should you go off route. Stay on route because the route is solid. There are some rocks that remain on the last pitch that were left there where they should stay, please. top of the cliff. Many loose small rocks were removed during the process of three excursions with Ryan and one by myself to complete this route. Incredible leads. We had no trouble retrieving our rappel ropes from above the dihedral belay ledge. First rappel 130ft and second rappel from below the ceiling belay is 160ft. Two 50m ropes are recommended and one 60m rope will also get you down but some trad gear will have to be left then for rappel. Lots of variations to this section of Cannon await leads but bolts will be necessary. For 6 years I've wanted to climb onto this diving board. It used to be called 'My Mine's I'. Ryan stood on the diving board and finished the last 10-15ft past the board because I was toast from drilling on the lead second excursion ascent. So it became 'Our Mine's I'. This Headwall ceiling had been the obstacle to my ambition of reaching a full length route up and right of this ceiling. The rock is excellent quality. The ceiling is very fractured and cammed by great weight above it. That's why it remains up there. I opted for bolt protection below ceiling and one above the diving board.
Directly above Bulldog on the north side or right of 'Odessa Steps' second pitch.
17 bolts and several fixed pins. On 'Bulldog' I doubled up the bolts because there will be needed a belay station to the direct start that hasn't been done and rope soloing higher I wanted two before I went on. Now there are many options to belaying the first pitch. I nicknamed this climb my Cannon sport route. It is not like any Rumney sport route. It was a long project. I broke a drill bit on this very hard granite conglomerate. A light rack with cam gear including a couple of large ones and some long slings should do.
Bradley White on First Ascent (pitch 5)
"Diving Board" on pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 5 - 5.8 ceiling (similar to 5.8 triangular c...
The "Diving Board" on pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Topo - Our Mine's I - Cannon Cliff. (Drawn by Rya...
Brad on pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: 5.9+ Dihedral V-Groove
Brad on "diving board"
Bradley White on First Ascent (Pitch 5)
Brad on pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 6 (final pitch)
|By Ryan Barber|
From: Rumney, NH
Aug 25, 2011
Pitch 1 (5.5 R): Start with the climb "Bull Dog" and climb up and right to a two bolt belay station just underneath roof with "diving board". Extend all slings. 6 bolts. (160 ft).
Pitch 2 (5.9): Climb up under roof. Traverse left around and on top of "diving board" and up to ledge. Continue up left facing crack corner, traverse left to grass ledge, and move up and right onto face. Climb to face and traverse right to anchor ledge. 8 bolts (50 ft).
Pitch 3 (5.7): Climb left up vertical crack for 30 feet. Traverse left past pin. Climb up another 40 feet past second pin to belay ledge under dihedral v-groove. (100 ft).
Pitch 4 (5.9+): Climb through dihedral v-groove and exit right onto face after fixed nut. Climb up to belay ledge (1 pin, 1 bolt). (30 ft).
Pitch 5 (5.8): Climb up finger crack through over ceiling, and follow the crack up and right to pin. Traverse right onto face, and up right side of face via crack to second pin. Move left up steep slab and back right to third pin before belay ledge (pin / fixed stopper). (80 ft).
Pitch 6 (5.8+): Careful climbing to stay on route (solid rock) up and around "Diving Board #2" (large). Climb up to ceiling, and exit left. Climb through left-facing wall. Summit onto moss, and exit right through trees and bushes into alcove. Belay off of solid pine inside alcove. (110 ft).
Finish: Make your way up and right through alcove to meet Whitney-Gilman decent trail. (30 ft).
|By dave custer|
Oct 1, 2011
Pitches 3 and up have been climbed previously, free and clean. The lower diving board pitch can be avoided on the right via cracks in a left facing dihedral/flake followed by a flirt with the Muir before stepping left to a platform beside thin cracks in good rock. Up to good ledges, then diagonal left to the crack below the kinematic coupler pitch (V-groove). The left crack below the kinematic coupler is fun & similarly difficult to the right, though the left's cleaver flake is a little perplexing.
|By kevin neville|
From: Somerville, MA
Jul 15, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Traversed right to this after failing to find (or perhaps understand) the second pitch of Odessa Steps. Some bits of nice climbing, especially the sharp dihedral; also a lot of loose rock. Plenty of gear placements, but often only in fractured rock of uncertain stability.
|By bradley white|
Jul 28, 2013
Apology for the criticism post. Its gone. I am not good at reading. I read into writing what is not written, often. We all have our flaws and one of mine is reading. This area of Cannon has many options for climbing. Exploration for variations and a couple of new routes are available. Area is short in length and altitude compared to north face Eiger. I think area is good practice for the longest routes on mountains like the Eiger north face. I don't know because have not been on the Eiger. I know only here have I trashed ropes like nowhere else from loose rock dropping on the rope. Most climbing is not technically difficult. The potential for difficulty exist and most starts about 200 feet up. It is an area hundreds of feet wide like an apron of clean Rock from Muir Buttress to Our Mines I. It has little natural protection too nearly none. I'm at a really weak climbing ability again. I will only be doing exploration of this area until its been thoroughly explored. Probably after a few more years. Its fits into my mood since I am climbing poorly I am doing extreme route finding climbing. To make sense to my madness is I prefer to stop climbing working on something extreme. Ryan barber and I are ready to make the big push to get to the top of probably the longest length climb in this area. When I get done with our new route I'll post it.