Our Father 

This is a great route, but the seriousness of the second pitch should not be underestimated. Edit: There is some decent gear- small cams/nuts a little ways off the belay, so keep your eyes open. Its probably best to link this pitch with the first to keep impact forces down should you blow it.

I'll also chime in and say that the final pitch is more like .10d Its steep and sustained .10 the whole way with a committing crux section that felt much harder. Edit: Upon returning to this route later, i'll agree with Tony- .9ish start to the increasingly difficult corner with a very distinct .10+ crux and a solid .10 finish.

rack- i ended up using a single rack to a #3 camalot with two green camalots on the final pitch, which would be just fine for the first pitch as well. maybe double up on something finger sized or smaller.

After passing the tree on the top of P1, I felt safe and solid climbing to the first bolt of P2 on this climb as a single pitch. Athough this was some distance the climbing was easier in general than that of the first pitch, perhaps 5.7-. Anyone who can climb this route at all should not fall here. Low odds but high consequences I suppose, though the fall would be long it is not the worst a climber could take, and is on a clean slab.
As for the last pitch, 10d is right, but the first 30' is perfect handjams (5.9-) and the second half is considerably harder, yes, about 10d (.75-1.5" gear)

We combined the first two pitches easily. High quality and diverse route.

Agree w/ the comment about pitch 2. 2 old(er) bolts protect the crux slab moves, then head up and right, and it's not hard but a bit balancy w/ no pro. If you have a small tcu (purple c3 maybe? - I didn't have) you might fashion a placement on the ledge you're standing on/by. I had only blue metolius and up so I had to pull the rail and slot a yellow or orange (can't remember) metolious in a horizontal. Pro is bomber from then on up the flake. And pitch 3 is worth it. So sweet.

If someone finds a gray winter hat in the ledge up and right from the base of the third pitch (below rappel anchors), please contact me.

I think saying the 2nd pitch is arbitrary is misleading depending on your strengths as a climber. They're credit card crimpers, if one breaks...

The third pitch as about as good as it gets for hand crack climb and takes great gear. The second pitch is scary and would be very bad if you blew it so if you are not comfortable climbing the third 5.10d pitch you likely do not want to get on this second pitch. I gave the second pitch an R rating since you would probably be hurt severely if you fell.

Very fun route. The slab on p2 is a bit runout, as soon as get visual of p3 it starts to be more understandable why you want to get up there.

Still a bit spooky though.

I put this one off for a long time because of assumed hardware issues with the long runout on the crappy bolt. Three things:

1 All the hardware is as bomber as you could ever wish. New, strong, solid.

2 There's a 4 BD stopper that's iffy before the bolt-if you bring a blue Ballnut (smallest), there's a SOLID placement to get you to the bolt. Worth having with you.

3 The final corner is nowhere near as straightforward as it looks. Purple TCU with a draw pre-rigged might save you enough time to not butter when you get to the first pod, and then you better stomp the gas-it doesn't get done til you clip the chains!

P2 is not that bad, not sustained, and there is a bolt where the climbing is the hardest, just be solid at the grade (R?). Didn't find P3 that sustained, a short section of thin fingers, overall a superb pitch.

The 3rd pitch is great, but the 2nd pitch scare the crap out of me!

I totally agree with Shiho on this one. The third pitch was worth getting up to, but the second pitch was pretty terrifying. We found that a small offset master cam protected the moves after the bolt, but did not have a blue ball-nut, so getting to it was certainly the mental crux of the route. All things considered, this climb is a gem.

If you wanted to only climb the money pitch, you could access it on rappel after climbing Wholesome Fullback (10a) which is a two pitch climb to the left of this one.

The second pitch is much less runout than it showed in the Flacon Guide.
It's a decent distance to get to the 1st set of bolts (1 old 1 new next to each other) slightly up and right, but the climbing is the easiest of the pitch.
Then there's a new bolt just above the first pair. From here you go slightly left and there's another brand new bolt, between these 2 is the crux. After the last bolt, there's only a move or 2 that's 5.9, then it more like 5.6 or 5.7.
Once, in the corner there's gear (thin stuff).

So do the climb, don't let the R scare you!

Sounds like this thing has sprouted new bolts on the 2nd pitch. I only remember one bolt on it, and thats the one that the ASCA had replaced years ago (there were two originally). The second time I climbed it, I think there was also one, MAYBE two bolts. Sounds like there's 4 up there now, which would significantly ease the stress level on that pitch.

We replaced those bolts last season 1 to 1, but didn't have time to remove the last one... Will b heading back to finish that as well as first pitch of ds of t. Cheers!

Greg Barnes replaced the pro bolt on Our Father in 2004, I think- I know because I talked with him about it. It should not have needed any bolt replacement done. All of those bolts are retro, dude.

Rob, you and I replaced bolts on Delicate Sound and Tales From The Gripped that day. We didn't have to touch P2 of Our Fadda as all that was already done. The ones we didn't finish dealing with were on P2 of Tales, that was when we finally gave in to our scratchy throats and descended to get water and Haterade.

I think Roger's description is making it sound like there is a sport section on that pitch, but I'd bet at most someone may have replaced the formerly chopped second bolt recently. This probably isn't any big deal since the 1-to-1 was just stepped up back in the day to eliminate a very close 2nd bolt, and the addition of a new replacement isn't really making any great difference one way or another. That said, if retros are going in up there, they will be removed, I'm sure. Very sure.

The route's sick regardless. Enjoy!

We accidentally climbed this route thinking it was the start to wholesome fullback. So glad we did! A couple notes: I felt the first pitch was probably 5.8 and the second pitch was harder than 5.9. It was not unsafe though. You can get a bomber blue TCU in a scar before the first bolt and the crux moves are bolt protected. This climb is rather safe. If you decide not to move left after the first two bolts you can also climb around the looming bulge on the right at 5.8/9ish. If you do this you'll need to move the belay for the third pitch. I also recommend linking the first two pitches. We did with minimal rope drag. The third pitch is awesome, so don't be scared away from this climb!