Otter Lake Cliff Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Sketch of the Cliff and Routes
Short south facing cliff on the north side of Otter Lake in Caroga Lake, NY. If you are looking for some fun bouldery sport routes without a crowd, then this is the place for you. Tallest climb in roughly 45' tall, some are only 30-35' tall.
Park at the Kane Mtn. tailhead parking area on Green Lake Rd. in Caroga Lake, NY (near the small marina/gas station). From the parking area, walk northeast toward the reservoir and turn left onto the cross country ski trail that cuts over to Pine Lake. About 400 yards down this trail you will see a rock cairn on the right side of the trail. Cut into the woods here to head towards Otter Lake (This appraoch keeps you off of the private property for the 2 hunting camps on Otter Lake). Once you hit the lake, stay on the waters edge of the north side of the lake continuing all the way to the backside of the lake. Follow the climbers trail to the cliff. Total hike takes roughly 25 min.
Climbing Season For the Southern Mountains area.
Weather station 12.3 miles from here
16 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Otter Lake Cliff
Roof Direct 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a NY
: ... : Otter Lake Cliff
Starts the same as the "Roof Traverse". After the first two bolts, reach out the overlapping roof section to secure the third clip before moving straight out the roof section. Great problem with a difficult roof section...maybe V4ish moves at the crux, but well protected....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
Mitch Hoffman leading "Porcupine Prelude"...
BETA PHOTO: The Overlaps on the main face...pretty nice featur...
BETA PHOTO: Boulder at the base of the cliff...holdsa nice V3...
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jan 27, 2011
I notice that all of the routes get a "PG-13" rating, though they're categorized as sport routes. Is there potential for ground fall on these routes?
From: SL UT
Feb 5, 2011
Wow Justin... you went on a rampage here... nice work!
By Justin Sanford
From: Broadalbin, New York
Mar 28, 2011
Ha ha...that's what you get when you have a boulderer trying to rate sport climbs! The climbs are well protected, but I have seen people stick clip the 2nd bolt on a bunch of the routes in fear of ground falls (although I personally have not seen a ground fall at this crag). I guess thr routes could be updated to "G"...need some more climbers opinions out there for sure...
By Matt Rhodin
From: Syracuse, NY
Sep 19, 2014
Can somebody with the new ADK rock book update the approach? Apparently there is a much more detailed description now.