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Otter Cliffs

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Flake, The T,TR 
A Dare by the Sea T,TR 
Black Crack T 
Brochure Crack TR 
Cakewalk TR 
Chockstone Chimney TR 
Cliff Traverse 
Deep Blue Sea TR 
Easy Corner T,TR 
Engel Arete T,TR 
Gallery, The TR 
Great Chimney, The TR 
Groove, The T,TR 
Guillemot Crack T 
Guillotine T,TR 
In the Grove T 
Inner Sanctum TR 
Mystic, The TR 
Outer Face TR 
Overhanging Corner T,TR 
Peak Performance T,TR 
Rock Lobster TR 
Sand Beach cliffs 
Small Cove Problem 
Starfish TR 
Wonder Wall TR 
Wonderwall - Left TR 
Wounderwall - Right TR 
Yellow Wall T,TR 

Otter Cliffs 


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Location: 44.31194, -68.18919 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,272
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007
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Austin rappelling down

Description 

Most famous and heavily used climbing area in Acadia. Toprope or rappel in to climb here.

Anchors are solid steel bars pounded into the top of the cliff because years of toproping here has killed many trees.

Excellent place for beginners to learn about climbing, the beauty of nature, and placing gear in a wet crack.

Beware high tides as your ropes will get soaked and your gear will be salt encrusted. the rock that the routes start on just gets underwater at the highest tide points.

Check out the Dr. Topo guide here


Getting There 

East side of Acadia National Park. Follow signs to Otter Cliffs, park and cross road towards ocean to find cliffs below you.


29 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',6],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',5],['5.11',1],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Otter Cliffs:
Chockstone Chimney   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     TR, 50'   
The Great Chimney   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     TR, 60'   
The Groove   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 55'   
Overhanging Corner   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 50'   
The Flake   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wonderwall - Left   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Deep Blue Sea   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Wounderwall - Right   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Black Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Yellow Wall   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Wonder Wall   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 50'   
Rock Lobster   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Guillotine   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Peak Performance   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 60'   
Outer Face   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 40'   
Inner Sanctum   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
A Dare by the Sea   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Starfish   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Gallery   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Otter Cliffs

Featured Route For Otter Cliffs
Approaching the upper crux.

Guillotine 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b  ME : Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
Follow the wide crack using faceholds and intermittent thin cracks to the upper dihedral crux. After a funky move or two to get the lieback, move slightly left into the roof and finish with a fantastic overhanging traverse to the right....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Otter Cliffs Slideshow Add Photo
Belay
Belay
Oh fun times
Oh fun times
Historic photo .April 1971 . P.Ross and other on the climb now called Rock Lobster.This climb was first ascended  by Ross and Mike Peloquin . This FA was led . For at least two years from that time the climbs here were part of the Outward Bound program ,and rarely  used if at all by other climbers .
Historic photo .April 1971 . P.Ross and other on t...
Otter Cliffs. First climb. 1995.  <br /> <br />Photo: Pasquale Gargano
Otter Cliffs. First climb. 1995.

Photo: Pasquale...
Otter Cliffs - Sun, rock, surf, puffins and comedians
Otter Cliffs - Sun, rock, surf, puffins and comedi...
My first climb ever. Hanging on! 1995.  <br /> <br />Photo: Pasquale Gargano
My first climb ever. Hanging on! 1995.

Photo: Pa...
Some folks sitting atop Wonder Wall.
Some folks sitting atop Wonder Wall.
One of the staples on Otter cliffs
BETA PHOTO: One of the staples on Otter cliffs
Otter Cliffs Topo
BETA PHOTO: Otter Cliffs Topo
Our first top rope of Wonder Wall. An amazing climb!
Our first top rope of Wonder Wall. An amazing clim...
Comments on Otter Cliffs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian12345
From: Orono, Maine
May 25, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 

Heyyo I found a kids harnness and a chalk bag on 5/24. If you can tell me the brand and color I will get it back to you

By Echoinfi
Jul 20, 2008

On the night of 7/15 under heavy seas the following routes fell into the ocean.

Black Crack, 5.8
Rip Tide, 5.11
Razor Flake, 5.8

The park service and some local climbers are cleaning up face. It should be ready by next spring. The rest of Otter Cliffs is still in good condition.

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Jan 25, 2009

Around 1969/70 with Mike Peloquin and Steve Devlin ( my OB assistants) on request from Maine Outward Bound School we opened up Otter cliffs with about 14 new climbs from around 5.5 to 5.10.... some for our own personal fun, the more moderate ones for the use of students. The only sign of any activity ( as most climbs had some loose rock) was a piton in the easy chimney behind the climb that is now called Rock Lobster.Still have dated slides of some of these ascents one being the obvious Rock Lobster.

By Jeremy K
Aug 17, 2009

Otter Cliffs is a Top-Managed climbing site. If you don't know how to safely belay off the anchor, or how to rig some of the anchors, PLEASE seek qualified instruction. There have been a number of accidents and near misses as a result of inappropriate belay/anchor techniques.

By Chris Grosshans
Oct 2, 2011

Not all of the climbs have anchors at the top. There are bars and I-bolts near 'In The Groove', 'Wonder wall' and immediately surrounding climbs. If you want to climb elsewhere bring a light rack to build your own anchors.