Otis Peak is a longish ridge to the north of Loch Vale and goes up to the Continental Divide. It hosts Loch Vale Pinnacle, Wham, Zowie, The Solar Wall, Cosmo, Otis Flower Tower, Fire Tower, the Piton Spire, and The Birthday Tower. Under Otis Peak is the Alva Adams Tunnel that brings water from west to east of the Continental Divide.
From Glacier Gorge, go up to The Loch (~2.7 miles). Skirt the Loch on the right (north) side. Head up right on the Andrews Glacier Trail past Andrews Tarn (~3.5 miles). The first spires you see on the right are Wham and Zowie. Further downhill is the Loch Vale Pinnacle. Next are Solar Wall, Otis Flower Tower, and Piton Spire. Expect 1+ hours for the approach.
13 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Otis Peak:
The Smokey Birthday Climb (9/7/10) 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600' Otis Power Tower (aka B-da...
Featured Route For Otis Peak
The Solar Panel 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Solar Wall
This is a fun, mellow route on good rock. We dislodged nothing on the FA.P1 and P2) start at the mouth of the gully on the left side of the Solar Wall. Climb up to the obvious crack feature near the arete and follow it to the ledgy terrain above. Continue up the low angle terrain and belay at a block below and right of a left-angling dihedral and below and left of a left-facing, vertical dihedral. We combined these pitches. 5.8, 300 feet.P3) follow the left-facing dihedral until it ends, step ri...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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