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Otis Peak

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Cosmo 
Fire Tower 
Forgotten Spire 
Hidden Spire 
Otis Flower Tower 
Otis Power Tower (aka B-day Tower) 
Piton Spire 
Solar Wall, The 
Thrill Tower 
Wham 
Zowie 

Otis Peak Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,000'
Location: 40.2922, -105.6805 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,160
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Cor on Aug 31, 2010
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The convoluted southern flanks of Otis Peak.

Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Otis Peak is a longish ridge to the north of Loch Vale and goes up to the Continental Divide. It hosts Loch Vale Pinnacle, Wham, Zowie, The Solar Wall, Cosmo, Otis Flower Tower, Fire Tower, the Piton Spire, and The Birthday Tower. Under Otis Peak is the Alva Adams Tunnel that brings water from west to east of the Continental Divide.

Getting There 

From Glacier Gorge, go up to The Loch (~2.7 miles). Skirt the Loch on the right (north) side. Head up right on the Andrews Glacier Trail past Andrews Tarn (~3.5 miles). The first spires you see on the right are Wham and Zowie. Further downhill is the Loch Vale Pinnacle. Next are Solar Wall, Otis Flower Tower, and Piton Spire. Expect 1+ hours for the approach.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.3 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',7],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Otis Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Otis Peak:
One for the Red Team   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch   Zowie
South Face   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   Zowie
Piton D'Or (The Golden Piton)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'   Piton Spire
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Otis Peak

Featured Route For Otis Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1.

Der Sudwand Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Fire Tower
Maybe some/all of this has been climbed before, maybe not. We didn't see any evidence on route, but aside from a few trundled holds, we didn't leave any either.Pitch 1. From the large ledge at the base of the buttress, climb intermittent cracks up and right to the large, RFC. Ascend the steep, RFC via big holds, exiting left at the top to a good belay stance. (5.7)Pitch 2. From the belay ascend up and left via ledges and short corners until it is possible to move back right to the prow on good...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Otis Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Otis Peak overview.
BETA PHOTO: Otis Peak overview.
Rock Climbing Photo: I really liked the other photo by Keen Butterworth...
I really liked the other photo by Keen Butterworth...

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