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Otis Peak

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Cosmo 
Fire Tower 
Otis Flower Tower 
Otis Power Tower (aka B-day Tower) 
Piton Spire 
Solar Wall, The 
Wham 
Zowie 

Otis Peak 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,000'
Location: 40.2922, -105.6805 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,943
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Cor on Aug 31, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Otis Peak overview.

Description 

Otis Peak is a longish ridge to the north of Loch Vale and goes up to the Continental Divide. It hosts Loch Vale Pinnacle, Wham, Zowie, The Solar Wall, Cosmo, Otis Flower Tower, Fire Tower, the Piton Spire, and The Birthday Tower. Under Otis Peak is the Alva Adams Tunnel that brings water from west to east of the Continental Divide.


Getting There 

From Glacier Gorge, go up to The Loch (~2.7 miles). Skirt the Loch on the right (north) side. Head up right on the Andrews Glacier Trail past Andrews Tarn (~3.5 miles). The first spires you see on the right are Wham and Zowie. Further downhill is the Loch Vale Pinnacle. Next are Solar Wall, Otis Flower Tower, and Piton Spire. Expect 1+ hours for the approach.


Climbing Season


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Otis Peak:
One for the Red Team   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch   Zowie
South Face   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   Zowie
Piton D'Or (The Golden Piton)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'   Piton Spire
Browse More Classics in Otis Peak

Featured Route For Otis Peak
Pitch 1.

Der Sudwand Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Fire Tower
Maybe some/all of this has been climbed before, maybe not. We didn't see any evidence on route, but aside from a few trundled holds, we didn't leave any either.Pitch 1. From the large ledge at the base of the buttress, climb intermittent cracks up and right to the large, RFC. Ascend the steep, RFC via big holds, exiting left at the top to a good belay stance. (5.7)Pitch 2. From the belay ascend up and left via ledges and short corners until it is possible to move back right to the prow on good...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Otis Peak
Photos of Otis Peak Slideshow Add Photo
The convoluted southern flanks of Otis Peak.
The convoluted southern flanks of Otis Peak.
I really liked the other photo by Keen Butterworth and wanted to see it in black and white. I did a little work with GIMP and here it is.
I really liked the other photo by Keen Butterworth...
Comments on Otis Peak Add Comment
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By jjjust
Jan 2, 2012

Otis Peak.