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Otis Peak is a longish ridge to the north of Loch Vale and goes up to the Continental Divide. It hosts Loch Vale Pinnacle, Wham, Zowie, The Solar Wall, Cosmo, Otis Flower Tower, Fire Tower, the Piton Spire, and The Birthday Tower. Under Otis Peak is the Alva Adams Tunnel that brings water from west to east of the Continental Divide.
From Glacier Gorge, go up to The Loch (~2.7 miles). Skirt the Loch on the right (north) side. Head up right on the Andrews Glacier Trail past Andrews Tarn (~3.5 miles). The first spires you see on the right are Wham and Zowie. Further downhill is the Loch Vale Pinnacle. Next are Solar Wall, Otis Flower Tower, and Piton Spire. Expect 1+ hours for the approach.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Otis Peak:
Featured Route For Otis Peak
Der Sudwand Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Fire Tower
Maybe some/all of this has been climbed before, maybe not. We didn't see any evidence on route, but aside from a few trundled holds, we didn't leave any either.Pitch 1. From the large ledge at the base of the buttress, climb intermittent cracks up and right to the large, RFC. Ascend the steep, RFC via big holds, exiting left at the top to a good belay stance. (5.7)Pitch 2. From the belay ascend up and left via ledges and short corners until it is possible to move back right to the prow on good...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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