Otherworld 5.10a PG13
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Al Simons/James Barnum |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | allen simons on Sep 14, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Otherworld, with Hard Luck and Bad Times above and...
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Description Start at a slab under a line of 7 bolts. Climb up the center of the slab on pink granite past 3 bolts (5.7) to a lip and a roof/bulge. Pull the bolt protected roof (5.6) to a good stance. Climb the center of the upper slab past the three remaining bolts. The climbing gets progressively more difficult from that point as you go up, culminating in a 10a move, that is also well protected. A couple more moves get you to the top.
Location Big T Canyon. Park on south side of road in paved pullout 0.6 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube. Walk back east down the road 75 yards, and fourth class up the side of the road heading east toward the obvious granite slabs on the hill side. [Otherworld] is another 50 yards up. Left of the larger slabs are multiple ribs of granite with rotten chossy blocks in between them. Otherworld is the lowest left Rib.
Protection 7 bolts. 2 bolt anchor at the top. NOTE: The anchor is placed in a buried boulder that has been the spot of many rappels from slings that were wrapped around it in the past. One doubled rope rappel to the bottom or continue up to other routes. Descent- from any of the upper slab or rib climbs work down (3rd/4th) class to a central gully with a 30 foot drop to the road. Rappel anchors to the road are located on the east side of the gully.
All of the slabs uphill at the 0.6 mile mark Big T...
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Eric on the lead just getting busy.
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Eric W. following my variation lead of Otherworld,...
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By allen simons
Oct 7, 2006
| Recently changed the name of this climb. It was previously Adam's Rib, but someone pointed out to me there is already an Adam's Rib in the Big T. |
By kyle kingrey
From: Loveland
Jul 13, 2007
| Where is Adam's Rib? |
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Mar 23, 2009
| Yeah, the couple of more moves that get you to the top go at least 11?, but there's ways around the last slab face moves that are funner. This is an good route, but if you want to toprope bring a cordlette to run from anchors. |
By allen simons
Mar 23, 2009
| Scott, are you saying the last couple of moves are 5.11. I went up slightly left of the last bolt and it didn't seem that hard to me. Nice to see someone else climbing these. |
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Mar 24, 2009
| Yeah Allen, this route is awesome, but the face at the last bolt. I tried to go straight at it, and found myself on some 5.11 crimpers and a toe crimp that I couldn't pass. Both Erik and I took falls but did eventually move a hair left. |
By allen simons
Apr 10, 2009
| Scott, maybe it's the sequence or a height dependent thing. I remember clipping the last bolt, standing my right foot on a decent foot sloper, reaching high with the right hand to lock my fingers in a thin crack/seam, then high stepping up left and yarding on the crimper then I thought it was home free. Al |
By eric dubya
Jun 22, 2009
| WOOO HOOOO!! you can bet I'll be up there again, well worth it! Goin' a smidget left does help a great deal, but it's fun no matter how ya look at it. |
By allen simons
Jun 23, 2009
| These slabs and cracks are my favorite area in The Narrows. The rock is different than what is down by the road, solid granite that sees little traffic. |
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