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Mel's Diner
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kevin Powell and Darryl Hensel, 4/83
Page Views: 390
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Feb 1, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Short and sweet.

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Description 

Walk to the right around from the Mel Cracks, this climb is the last significant crack system before the crag peters out.

A steep route.

Ledges lead to the meat of the climb, a steep fingers to hand crack (small cam) which is followed to a nice hand-rail below the final bulge (comforting medium cam). Stepping left to good holds seems like the right thing to do, then head up from here. Sling a boulder for the belay.


Protection 

Small and medium cams, sling a boulder for the anchor.



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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 30, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is a great crack and I found it to be quite pumpy - a little stiff for the grade. Worked me hard but loved every minute of it!

By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Apr 12, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Agreed that this was a bit harder than advertised. I felt .8+/.9- was more on target. Fun route and protects well. I really suggest a direct start - not the start off the block. A stopper will protect moves off the deck. Suggested on a sunny afternoon (if you're looking to get in the shade for a break. Walk down fine, just a little time consuming.

By Carl A
From: brooklyn, ny
Jan 3, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Ya I hopped on this looking for a 5.7 like the Vogel Guide said. I was definitely interested, held my attention, angered my lady. I went back on toprope and tried lying back the top part, still hard Jtree 5.8/5.9 anywhere else fo sho.

Thought the route was short, fun, pumpy.

By Dave Kos
Jan 23, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Agree that this is stiff for a 5.7, even by JTree standards. Protects well, though, and is fun (but short.)