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Cob Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Crack 
Brownies In The Basin 
Corn on the Cob 
Crystal Arete 
Devil's Dream 
East Crack 
Empor 
Empor Scary Variant 
Face Problem 
Face Route 
Game, The 
Goat, The 
Headless Horseman, The 
Hug, The 
Hurley Direct 
Huston Crack 
Indistinction 
Left Huge aka The Hug Left 
Mantle Arete 
Ms. Fanny Le Pump 
Night Vision 
North Face Center 
North Face Left 
Northwest Corner 
Othello 
Right Crack 
Sleepy Hollow 
South Crack (Unknown) 
Thunder Road 
Under The Boardwalk 
Unknown 
West Cracks 
West Dihedral 
West Rib 
Unsorted Routes:

Othello 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Gets PM shade
Page Views: 814
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 26, 2009
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Tony cleans Othello.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A good stemming and jamming route with a small roof for crack climbing practice.
Start off from the ground in slightly junky rock and pull up into the corner on solid but tricky holds (10-, height may help) and get established in the corner. Stem and jam up several meters to get established under the roof, where a few 1" and under TCUs can be placed well with a long sling before battling the roof. Jam overhead and stem up to place a 2.5" cam (yellow Camalot OK) over the lip of the roof just above a solid chockstone, then stem and pull up on great hand jams and some incut holds to get established over the roof (crux, 10-). Continue onward to a nice ledge to set a trad belay.
To descend, scramble upward and SE, then down a ramp and south again to the ground... it is hard to explain, and might be best found from the ground first.


Location 

This route is up and left of the main face of Cob Rock. Find the Huston Crack Buttress and go up and left around a corner to find 3 parallel cracks, from right to left, South Crack (5.6), Indistinction (5.8), and Ms. Fanny Le Pump (11+). These can be recognized by the anchor 10 meters off of the ground on the left two of these three. Around another small corner, up and left, is Othello. This climb starts in a shallow left-facing corner and goes to a small roof at 30' then onward to a large ledge.


Protection 

1 rack of cams from 0.5-3" plus a few medium-large nuts + slings. The top is a trad anchor that needs a cordalette or similar to toprope. The descent requires a scramble off that can be tricky to find.



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