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A good stemming and jamming route with a small roof for crack climbing practice.
Start off from the ground in slightly junky rock and pull up into the corner on solid but tricky holds (10-, height may help) and get established in the corner. Stem and jam up several meters to get established under the roof, where a few 1" and under TCUs can be placed well with a long sling before battling the roof. Jam overhead and stem up to place a 2.5" cam (yellow Camalot OK) over the lip of the roof just above a solid chockstone, then stem and pull up on great hand jams and some incut holds to get established over the roof (crux, 10-). Continue onward to a nice ledge to set a trad belay.
To descend, scramble upward and SE, then down a ramp and south again to the ground... it is hard to explain, and might be best found from the ground first.
This route is up and left of the main face of Cob Rock. Find the Huston Crack
Buttress and go up and left around a corner to find 3 parallel cracks, from right to left, South Crack
(5.8), and Ms. Fanny Le Pump
(11+). These can be recognized by the anchor 10 meters off of the ground on the left two of these three. Around another small corner, up and left, is Othello. This climb starts in a shallow left-facing corner and goes to a small roof at 30' then onward to a large ledge.
1 rack of cams from 0.5-3" plus a few medium-large nuts + slings. The top is a trad anchor that needs a cordalette or similar to toprope. The descent requires a scramble off that can be tricky to find.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 24, 2014
There are two pitons at the "top" of this climb...about 25' above where the crack ends. I backed them up with two small cams, brought up my second, and then we rapped from there. Currently there is a decent looking red sling with rap biner through the pitons.
This is actually a sweet little climb. Short but worthwhile. The start might be a tad bit dicey if you aren't comfortable at the grade, it protects with small cams/stoppers. After that, you can sew the climb up, and it is easy to protect the roof moves. Save a few mid-sized cams (#1, #2 BD Camalots) for the crack after the roof. Make sure to put long runners on pro directly below the roof.