Oski 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Kole Decou, Dustin Wildermuth |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Kole DeCou on Mar 21, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Oski topo
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Description A Red Rocks route with Sedona atmosphere. Great views, well protected on very good rock. All day shade.
Pitch 1) 40' 5.9 Sport. Start in a pointy tree, or campus in from 5' left of the tree on jugs (V2). Follow 4 bolts to a big ledge, then walk left to belay under a roof.
Pitch 2) 90' 5.11 Sport. Pull the roof and follow bolts to a sweet little belay seat. 10 bolts. Great Pitch!!!
Pitch 3) 60' 5.9 crack. Traverse right past 3 bolts to a corner. Don't place gear too soon in the corner (drag). Follow the corner to a belay out left on a small ledge. Save a #3 and #3.5 Camalot for just after the chimney.
Pitch 4) 90' 5.10- sport. Follow bolts to the top. Another great pitch!! 11 bolts.
Descent: Rap the route with 1 60m rope. Be careful not to let go of the ropes, as the 2nd rap requires a big swing to the left. With 2 ropes you can reach the ground from the top of pitch 3.
Location We've decided to recomend approaching this route from the top because it has a trail approach. The approach from the bottom involves difficult scrambling and has erosion problems. Here's the better approach. It has been done in 35 minutes, but an hour is a more reasonable time.
Park at Bear Mountain Trail Head. Hike up Bear Mtn Trail, past Clan of the Cave Bear, to the top of the big hill. From here follow the big hiker's trail down to the base of a second steep hill. Climb this hill for about 10 minutes. Look for the biggest pine tree on the hill, next to the trail, and exit the trail here on the right. If you reach the neck of Bear Mountain with big cliffs on your left and right, you've gone just a little too far. From where you turn off the trail, follow cairns down to the top of a spectacular 180 degree overhung amphitheater. Look for rap anchors a little left of the small nose/arete in the middle of the amphitheater. Rap the route with 4 single rope raps or 1 single + 1 double. If rapping with a single, be careful not to let go of the ends on the 2nd rap! With 2 ropes you can reach the ground from the 2nd rap station (see topo). If for some reason you have to bail, you can walk out Fay Canyon.
GPS (of the bottom of the route): 34,54.707 N 111,52.562 W
Protection 11 draws, Nuts, 1 each to #3.5 Camalot. Extra yellow Alien, #3, #3.5, and #4 Camalot helpful.
Manny on pitch 2 on the 2nd ascent.
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Start of the route. You can avoid the tree by sta...
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Start of pitch 3.
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pitch 4
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BETA PHOTO: Photo of route, from the right side of the ampheth...
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By mark d
Mar 21, 2006
| where is this route in sedona?
[edit] thanks for the rest of the info. the route sounds good! |
By manuel rangel
Apr 30, 2006
| I thought you could use a #4 camalot also. I lead the crack pitch and it was fine, well protected and very solid sedona crack. I think you could do this route into the summer. Awesome route Kole, Dustin. |
By burlap submariner
Jan 4, 2010
| this route looks sweet, cant wait to get on it this upcoming fall when im out west. |
By Zack S.
From: Prescott, AZ
Mar 30, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c
| Really excellent route. Crux pitch felt hard! Highly recommended, even if the approach is a bear... |
By jayci
From: Flagstaff
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c
| Climbed this with Zack. Great climb! The first pitch is more of an approach pitch and could be avoided if you want to get to the biz. Well bolted with clips at natural rests. Beautiful position at the top of Fay Canyon! |
By Ryan Z
Apr 7, 2013
rating: 5.11c
| Approach was a piece of cake, we rapped in from the top. This has got to be some of the best face climbing in AZ. It was in the shade the whole time. P2 was business. |
By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 14, 2013
| One of the best I've been on in Sedona! Amazing views and good climbing on good rock! |
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