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 ADVANCED
The Boulders
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bert T,S 
Brought to you by the letter V S 
Ernie S 
Oscar Was a Dumpster Junkie S 
Room With a View S 
Short Story S 
Slab Happy S 
Toprope1 TR 
Toprope2 TR 
Unknown S 
Unnamed S 
Unsorted Routes:

Oscar Was a Dumpster Junkie 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Hang-dogged, but not sent yet
Season: all
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: Evan Winn on May 18, 2009

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Description 

Teal in the beta photo.

When we were young, we were so naive. We watched Sesamie Street and never asked questions we just took things at face value. We just believed that Big Bird was the only one who could see or talk to Snuffleupagus, but never wondered if Big Bird needed therapy. We didn't realize the Count probably had O.C.D., didn't realize Bert and Ernie (neat and clean roommates for life who wear colorful sweaters) were likely living in the closet and really more than best buddies, and never asked what was in Cookie Monster's Cookies. But worst of all, we all laughed at Oscar, a dirty grumpy guy who lives in a garbage can, and now we realize that he was probaby in that can due to a RAGING drug problem.

Well, like Oscar, this route is short dirty and grumpy. It follows an interesting looking, dihedral feature up the front of the Bert Boulder. You start on some chossy ledges and move left into the dihedral. There are a few good side pulls low and out to the right and harsh crimps on the left. At half height look for a decent, right handed undercling and then you hit the crux. There are a few small crimps in the orange scar that will get you to a good pinch right of the anchor. If you fall it won't be far, but the sharp stone will make you pay. Not great, but once you start you will want to finish it.

Location 

The route is on the lowest part of the Bert Boulder facing the parking lot. Easily recognised by the mini-dihedral with a left-facing, flat, fault face and right-facing fused stone.

Protection 

Three bolts to a Euro-style, trad anchor.


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