Oscar the Grouch 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Justin Jeffs, Jarom Feriante |
| Submitted By: | Perin Blanchard on Apr 17, 2008 |
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Description A fun route that requires careful, shifting footwork. There are actually two variations to this route: stopping at the first set of chains is .10d; continuing without stopping to the second set of chains is .11b.
The crux of the first part is low: getting off the ground and then pulling up to and clipping the second bolt. Fortunately the first bolt is low and can be clipped from the ground to protect this bit. After the crux the difficulty eases up somewhat.
After the second bolt the route continues trending left just a bit to the third bolt and then fairly straight up from there. However, the climbing requires weaving a bit back and forth to use the available hand- and footholds. Footholds abound, but are not a ladder in any sense.
Just before the first set of chains is a steeper section with sparser holds; get through this and into a shallow v-slot to the left of the first set of chains.
The exposure at the chains is exhilarating; Looking out west over Utah Valley is quite pleasant.
For the .11b variation continue past the chains up and right. This section is hugely entertaining; it continually gets steeper and harder, right up to the chains. Big holds for the most part, with one thinner section.
Note that the variation to the second set of chains is approximately 120 feet long. A 70m rope is not quite long enough to lower all the way to the ground (lower to the first set of chains, clip in, pull the rope, etc.).
Location The right-most bolted route at the base of Bad Bananas. The route starts to the left of a bush, and there are more bushes below the ledge on which it starts.
Protection 11 bolts, chain anchors (.10d); 11 bolts plus clipping the first chains, followed by 6 more bolts, then chain anchors (.11b). That's 20 draws for the long version!
Jones feelin' grouchy
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Canyon on oscar the grouch
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| Comments on Oscar the Grouch |
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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Apr 17, 2008
| One of the best things about this route (and the reason I gave it three stars) was hanging at the first set of chains. It was a cold April evening, the sun had just set, the gibbous moon was out, and it was really cool being way up in the air over Rock Canyon.
I suspect if you did this in the dead heat of a July afternoon it wouldn't be quite so magical.
I should also note that I only went to the first set of chains, so I can't really describe the extension. It is overhanging, and I have it on good authority that it is a "pump-fest". |
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jan 17, 2009
| I've now climbed this route to the second set of chains so I modified the description. The second part is a lot of fun (and definitely a "pump-fest", as advertised).
Note that lowering off the second set of chains may be a bit complicated. We managed to lower all the way to the ground with my "70m" rope, which actually measured out at 72m when it was new. When the climber was at the ground there was 1 foot of rope left before the belay device (a knot is a good idea).
Also, managing rope drag might be important. I used three standard-length slings and several foot-long quickdraws, backcleaned a couple of draws that were still within reach, and it was still all I could do to pull up the rope at the end. |
By Aaron Child
Feb 25, 2009
| Climbed the first and second pitch in one long pitch. The rope drag was...manageable. The second pitch is definitely classic, exposed, and a workout. The last bolt seems a little close to the anchors, and it makes clipping the chains quite the ordeal. 120 feet of good jugs never felt so good. |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 12, 2009
| I did the first pitch in full white out conditions one winter some years ago. There is a different pitch that leads of to the left on a pretty tough rail to the slab above the huge roof. |
By shotmaker
Sep 10, 2009
| The project to the up to the left of the first chains is called "Vitamin P" I estimate it at 11d to 12b. At far as I know, no one has the official FA on since Jarom and I bolted it. It is very exposed and not allot of large holds. Be careful on the rap down, its a long one. |
By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 9, 2009
rating: 5.10d
| I just did the first pitch and am yearning to do the second. I love how long this climb is. For me the hardest part was up in the orange rock with side pulls and crummy feet. Definitely worth a jaunt. |
By Canyon Copa
May 29, 2012
| Tough start clipping the first couple bolts. My friend took two bad falls in a row clipping the second bolt and landed in the bush below. After that the rest isn't very challenging, just long. |
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