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 ADVANCED
Indigenous Wall
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Wayback Machine, The T 

Orthanc 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Loran Smith 1979
Page Views: 240
Submitted By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Orthanc climbs the obvious blocky left facing corner up the entire cliff. Start to the right of the massive corner and work your way up and left to the base of it. Climb the dangerous blocky corner past small trees to the top of the cliff and solid ground. I would not recommend this route for it is dangerous for the leader and belayer. 160' 5.8 R/X

Location 

The obvious blocky death corner

Protection 

Standard Rack


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By chris magness
Jul 3, 2012

Don't climb this route. Don't even rappel over it. It's f*n loose.
By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 3, 2012

FA by Loran Smith & Booker Bense. July 1, 1979. (my 18th birthday)
By chinos
Mar 19, 2013

Loran I have to give it a bomb. the climb is a complete choss pile and is dangerous. we do not need people climbing these routes with rock fall potential while others are out there.

I agree that it's an amazing feature and a great line for the serious adventure climber, but calling it a three star route and luring people to try it is not a good idea. It's better off unrepeated!
By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 19, 2013

I fully agree Jon. I think time tempered my memory, and our initial exploration of Adventure Punks reminded me why I wrote in my log book in 1979 that I was super thankful to top out Orthanc. For some bizarre reason I still remember it fondly, as it was a big step in my personal progression.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 19, 2013

Eff'm