Ortega Falls Rock Climbing
Graffiti clean up at Ortega
Ortega Falls is a small climbing area (only six actual routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.10c). There is abundant bouldering opportunities in the area if you follow the stream bed in either direction. The rock is water polished and can be very slick. Depending on the time of day it can be a nice shady place and usually has a pleasant breeze to mellow out the heat (which can be pretty terrible, 95+ in summer). There is a gereral store and a bar a few miles down the highway. Most people top rope but it can be led. There is a trail to the right of the falls that will take you to the top.
Ortega Falls is located .5 miles off of Highway 74. Park in the large turnout 2 miles west of El Cariso Village. The falls will be visible from the turn out. There are several small trails heading in every direction, so make sure you take the trails furthest to the right hand side of the turnout. The approach is about .5 miles of very mild hiking.
Weather station 5.0 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Ortega Falls
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ortega Falls
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ortega Falls:
Dihedral 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Fingers 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Unknown 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Splitter 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Featured Route For Ortega Falls
A better shot of the routes. You can TR or trad t...
A view of the falls and the pool beneath. It's on...
A shot of the main face from the hilside. (Stolen ...
BETA PHOTO: Albert Boulder
5.7 is on the left, 5.9 is on the right
An extremely rare sight, Snow on the ortegas, and ...
Caleb working the fingers crack
From the ledge, looking down. This was taken from...
BETA PHOTO: Routes on face left of falls
Rapping down the 5.7 TR (but along the 5.9 route).
Due to the drought, falls are totally dry right no...
Jul 6, 2011
I spent Sunday bouldering and exploring the area. I guess you need a Forest Adventure Pass to park in the turnout (I'm from out of town). Turns out the ticket / violation is the same as the day pass.... $5:)
Looks like the top rope area was in the shade after 3pm.
I saw four or five bolts on a huge boulder about 20' above the TR anchors...looked super hard...what is it?
Better lat long for the turn out 33.62593,-117.426342
I was surprised to see a drivers license / sobriety check point setup at the turn out.
From: Riverside, Ca
Mar 2, 2012
There have been some recent rocks that have fallen... I don't know where they originated but there are a few rock scars around the routes... As always... be careful around areas that see moving water & changing conditions.
By Jim H
From: Pasadena, CA
May 8, 2012
Correct and more accurate map coordinates. Stay high and to the right as you approach the falls/main area. You will want this easy approach from the top if you are setting topropes.