In between routes 9 and 10, directly up the dark slab, Original Sin climbs up very small edges and fingertip-to-fingernail nubbins to the anchors for the first pitch of Moby Grape (listed as route "Unknown" in this database). There are around 9 good bolts protecting the route, but they're difficult to see until you're on top of them (accounting for this route not getting much traffic).
You get bonus points for ascending the last vertical step directly to the anchors instead of moving left to the crack pull-up/finish of Moby Grape. The grade stays the same either way - but not too difficult for a 9+, all told.
Please note the comments on Unknown/Moby Grape about rope length unless you intend to continue that climb's second pitch. This is not a slab you want to be downclimbing unroped.
A dozen QDs will be plenty, but you'll need a 70m rope or the ability to pass a knot through multiple belay devices to lower from the anchors - see unknown (Moby Grape) for further information.
Look for bolts right of MG. They are hard to see,...
|By Stewart M. Green|
Dec 4, 2002
I did the first ascent of this route in 1996 with Martha Morris. Pro was 3 bolts and some small wires. I went back later and added more bolts to make it a sport route. It's very fun and well worth doing.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 22, 2004
I am way confused - this description has this between Routes 9 and 10, where the D'Antonio book has Original Sin listed as route 10 (which does not go to the anchors of Moby Grape as described above).We started this line left of the partially bolted Route 11 (Jet Setter) and didn't see a single place for pro in the first 30 or 40'. My buddy got a little sketched/frustrated and traversed over to Moby Grape. Can anyone clear up my confusion?!
|By Larry Shaw|
Aug 20, 2005
It sounds like you started on Jet Setter. This route is just left of #10 and is usually toproped from the [Moby Grape] anchors or lead climbed with runout pro.
|By John McNamee|
From: Littleton, CO
May 22, 2006
This is a nice climb up well protected face and slab moves. Trust your feet and you will find it not too tricky. Pretty solid 9. If you are unsure of leading it, climb Moby Dick and then top rope it. A 60m rope will let you lead it and then rap back to the blocks several feet above the ground. Well worth doing.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
May 29, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fun well protected route, but probably not 5.9+. A 70m rope is helpful.
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
First bolt at 20' is really hard to spot, but we found it with aid of opera glasses!. A wire would make the finishing moves more comfortable.