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Original Side
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(01) Jabba the Hutt/Sport-Homo Wall 
(02) Slab Wall 
(03) Bivi Wall/Swallow Wall 
(04) Benny Silva Wall 
(05) Health Wall 

Original Side 


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on May 21, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Photo-topo of the original side.

Description 

This is the original Mentmore. The area that allured the original pioneers of the area to start drilling bolts. Has a great selection of climbs ranging from 5.8 to 5.12a. Enjoy! Walls are numbered from left to right, starting on the far left side of the climbing area by the railroad tracks. When following the trail, however, you will typically end up near between (04) Benny Silva Wall, and (05) Health Wall. Both of these walls have a nice variety of climbs on them.


Getting There 

Once to the parking area, look for a break on the North side of the lot through the fence. Follow the trail down through the arroyo, past some big ugly signs that the city put up, and to the crag. Pretty difficult to miss. There is also a newer trail that has been more recently been developed that can be used if the arroyo is full of water. This trail starts on the west side of parking area just left of a large wooden information sign. Of course, this used to be a nice sign, but there are certain sects of Gallup locals who prefer not to have anything nice and decorate things like this with bullet holes.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Original Side:
Why Crack   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   (05) Health Wall
STD   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   (05) Health Wall
Big Blobs of Love   5.8     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   (04) Benny Silva Wall
Joe's Crack   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   (04) Benny Silva Wall
Looking for Daniel   5.8     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   (02) Slab Wall
Pseudo-Supercrack   5.9     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   (02) Slab Wall
May Cause Health Problems   5.9     Trad   (05) Health Wall
Magnum cum Masochist   5.10a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   (05) Health Wall
Phalanx   5.10a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   (05) Health Wall
Rapture   5.10a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   (04) Benny Silva Wall
Inner Sanctum   5.10a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   (05) Health Wall
D.D.M.   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   (03) Bivi Wall/Swallow Wall
Hookymaster General   5.10b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   (03) Bivi Wall/Swallow Wall
Muy Enfermo   5.10c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   (03) Bivi Wall/Swallow Wall
Reggae's Route   5.10c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   (05) Health Wall
Razors from Heaven   5.10d     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   (04) Benny Silva Wall
Not Suitable for Pregnant Women   5.11a     Sport   (05) Health Wall
Tres Amigos   5.11a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   (05) Health Wall
Smegma Deluxe   5.11d     Sport   (05) Health Wall
Demon Within   5.12a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25 feet   (01) Jabba the Hutt/Sport-H...
Browse More Classics in Original Side

Featured Route For Original Side
Slightly overhanging Muy Enfermo.

Muy Enfermo 5.10c  NM : Gallup Area : ... : (03) Bivi Wall/Swallow Wall
One of the most popular routes at Mentmore, and all the more so since it was accorded "area classic" status in Falcon Press's 'Rock Climbing New Mexico". This IS an excellent route: steep and sustained, with interesting movement throughout on a variety of hold types. For the full effect, stay on the boltline; moving right to rest on lower-angled terrain makes it significantly easier. This route suffers a bit from loose and crumbly rock, however. Be careful not to bean the belayer. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM