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Original Route/Suicide Blonde 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Wheely et al / Jeff Noffsinger Patrick Turner
Season: All year
Page Views: 4,402
Submitted By: Jeff Dopp on Jun 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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3rd pitch, Suicide Blonde.

Description 

The first pitch is 5.6 and involves a series of ledges.
The 2nd pitch is the crux and is easier than it looks...even if it's wet. Great pro!
Stop and belay at the anchors on the wall above the top of the corner.
Walk left on the big ledge and belay.
The final pitch follows the edge of the void and primarily uses chicken heads for pro. The final moves are a bit pumpy and maybe harder than the actual crux but brief. Walk up and right through the forest and rappel off a tree back to the big ledge. You can rappel this route with one 60 meter rope but may have to do three rappels. I recommend trailing a second rope.

Location 

From Oneida follow the O&W road down through the gorge until you are almost to the old bridge. If you drive across the bridge and turn around you'll get a great view of the route. Park on the east side of the bridge and hike up the hill for about 10 mins to the base of the obvious corner in the center of the wall.

Protection 

A set of stoppers, a set of cams and some long runners is fine.


Photos of Original Route/Suicide Blonde Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Suicide Blond, p2, Big South Fork, TN
Suicide Blond, p2, Big South Fork, TN
Rock Climbing Photo: O&W Regular route with Suicide Blond variation fin...
BETA PHOTO: O&W Regular route with Suicide Blond variation fin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim nearing the top of pitch 2 of Original Route. ...
Tim nearing the top of pitch 2 of Original Route. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch of Original Route taken from lunch ledg...
Last pitch of Original Route taken from lunch ledg...

Comments on Original Route/Suicide Blonde Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jareddye
From: Lexington, KY
Jul 8, 2016

CONDITION REPORT 
The anchor bolts at the top of the 2nd pitch are spinning. Use with caution
By khowe
From: Knoxville, TN
Dec 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pitches 1 and 2 can be linked with no drag, 130'. Pitch 3 of Suicide Blonde is more like a 5.4, it's very low-angled and a jug-haul to the chain. Cord with a quick-link on tree above Original Route to rap to lunch ledge.
By SeanIrwin
From: Knoxville TN
Jul 11, 2016

What would the Original Route without the Suicide Blonde finish go at in terms of grade?

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