Original Route/Suicide Blonde  5.8-

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220 feet Consensus:  5.8- [details] FA:  Wheely et al / Jeff Noffsinger Patrick Turner Season:  All year Submitted By:  Jeff Dopp on Jun 23, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: O&W Regular route with Suicide Blond variation fin...

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Description 

The first pitch is 5.6 and involves a series of ledges.
The 2nd pitch is the crux and is easier than it looks...even if it's wet. Great pro!
Stop and belay at the anchors on the wall above the top of the corner.
Walk left on the big ledge and belay.
The final pitch follows the edge of the void and primarily uses chicken heads for pro. The final moves are a bit pumpy and maybe harder than the actual crux but brief. Walk up and right through the forest and rappel off a tree back to the big ledge. You can rappel this route with one 60 meter rope but may have to do three rappels. I recommend trailing a second rope.

Location 

From Oneida follow the O&W road down through the gorge until you are almost to the old bridge. If you drive across the bridge and turn around you'll get a great view of the route. Park on the east side of the bridge and hike up the hill for about 10 mins to the base of the obvious corner in the center of the wall.

Protection 

A set of stoppers, a set of cams and some long runners is fine.

Photos of Original Route/Suicide Blonde Slideshow

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Suicide Blond, p2, Big South Fork, TN