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Dickfour
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Original Route T 

Original Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A2+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A2+ [details]
FA: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Brad Bonds, Nov. 1998
Season: Fall through Spring
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Dec 27, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Dick For

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1:
There are multiple ways to access 'Dick For'. 'Day of the Eagle' seems to be the most aesthetic option. You can also hike up the canyon to the left of 'Day of the Eagle' and avoid a pitch one all together. Whatever you end up doing the goal is to get to the crack off the bench on the north side of the tower. Once on the bench, bolts should be visible high on the tower.

Pitch 2:
Step across a 3' wide 30' deep chimney to access the crack. Climb this crack up and left past some broken sections. Make and awkward move up and right to access a big sloping ledge. Traverse the ledge right to more crack and bolts above.

Descent:
One double rope rappel puts you on the ground.

Protection 

This list of pro is for the summit pitch only as there are multiple ways to approach the base of this pitch.

Stoppers
Offsets
Double set of cams from black alien to #1 camalot
One #2 and #3 camalot
Assortment of pins including baby angles, lost arrows, peakers, and blades.


Photos of Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
Dickfour
BETA PHOTO: Dickfour
Brad Bond, cleaning start of pitch 2. In the rain,...
Brad Bond, cleaning start of pitch 2. In the rain,...
Brad Bond starting pitch 1 of the Dickfour, first ...
Brad Bond starting pitch 1 of the Dickfour, first ...
Brad Bond rappelling, Dickfour
Brad Bond rappelling, Dickfour
Brad Bond jumping and cleaning pitch 2, first asce...
Brad Bond jumping and cleaning pitch 2, first asce...
me, sunset, starting up pitch 2.
me, sunset, starting up pitch 2.

Comments on Original Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Dec 30, 2013

Nice write up, Ben!

One thing, the name of the tower is, of course, supposed to be Dickfour, one word.
By Matt Pickren
Dec 30, 2013

Crusher, good to know that it is actually named "Dickfour" rather than "Dick For." However, where does the name come from. I've wondered for years since I first saw the spire while climbing 143 in 2006. Some history may be interesting, and even better, to quite our friend B. Grasse who excessively asks 'Whats a Dick for?!"

Thanks for the reply, Matt
By Andy Donson
Dec 30, 2013

Matt, I think its a style of British cuisine, commonly served at lunchtime.
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Jan 4, 2014

...style of British cuisine....?

No, no, that doesn't sound right.
By Ben Kiessel
Jan 31, 2014

Thanks for the correction.