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Khartoum
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Original Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: A.Durie J. Dunkley
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,057
Submitted By: a d on Aug 17, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Pitches 2 and 3.

Description 

Follow Obvious left facing dihedral to vertical crack system seen from base of wall where tail ends.
After technical cracks, follow obvious weakness (5th class) to alcove. From alcove head right, through chimney and up to obvious "finish fins"
No fixed anchors on route, all gear belays.
To descend(rap), see topo.

Location 

From where trail ends, gain small tree ledge up, and right.(flagged) Belay p.1 from this ledge.

Protection 

Double set of cams to 4", nuts.
2 x 60m ropes.


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By Evan Guilbault
Apr 15, 2016

Very fun route on stellar granite. Climbs like St Vitus' Dance in Squamish BUT BETTER! Incredible views in every direction. Good rock quality and great physical movement. Notes on climb: P1, BRING A #4 Camalot for the belay. Very important since the only other protection is a flake slung with cordelette.

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