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For convenience sake, I have used numbering here that begins on the left with Killer Instinct as #1 and swings right to the Wilford Roof as #15. Original Route can be called #12 with some option to see a few lines between it and the Wilford Roof. Climbing on the original route begins in deep slot 50 feet left of the Wilford Roof. Squirm up the slot to a good stem and start looking for pro. Chase the crack and flake to the right for a little sinusoidal climbing on perfect granite that eats up pro. Finish at the little tree above the crack at about 65 feet (not at 130 as described by Hubbel). There is an option to continue to the very top, but this looks unappealing.
Bring a full set of caming units. I used #s 1, 2, 3 of Camalots and almost a full set of Friends, wires seemed optional.
|Comments on Original Route
|By Michael Kullman|
Aug 26, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Pretty nice climb for the grade I thought, this and the harder line to the left makes for a nice after work trad session.
This route seems more like 5.7 than 5.8, while the steep hand crack to the left is more like hard 5.9 than 5.7.
|By Matt Juth|
Apr 17, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
I agree. It was not much harder than 5.7. The crack to the left felt 9ish to me.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I'm a new trad leader, I used a lot of different pro. A small cam at the bottom of the route, the #1, 2, 3 cams for the middle of the route, 0.5 cam, nuts and a hex for the final crack leading to the tree. I'd say that I put in a lot for the grade, but since I'm new, practice is great. If you want more of this "practice", you could double up on BD #1, 2 cams perhaps. (I mention the gear because I think Gillett mentions medium to large gear only.)
Fun route for sure! I'd keep it with the 5.8 rating - nothing unexpected for that grade on this route. Just get yourself in those cracks and you'll be fine. Oh, the one tricky spot is getting around the little tree/bush on the final crack. Have fun!
Thinking about it more - some of the nut placements had uneven cracks, the medium/large offset nuts worked great! And really, I placed the medium hex because I wanted to, not because you need one.