Original Route (aka Jake Off)
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BETA PHOTO: West Siberia. T.Gordon pic, my overlay.
Follow the wide crack to an awkward roof encounter. After turning the roof you can either continue slogging up this crack or bail to climbers left and head to the anchor bolts of Old Hornington. If you bail left, be sure to protect the follower with some high pro as they will be mid crux when pulling your last piece before the traverse. The fall would be ghastly
The obvious wide crack system that splits the dome. The start is in the 6" crack at the base of the big left facing corner. No idea on how you get down. I would guess you could find some rap anchors by Irish Toothache or scramble down to climbers left.
Pro to about 4" should cover it. If you do the entire route, take some extra stuff in the 1.5" to 2.5" range.
By Russ Walling
Dec 7, 2013
Swim up the wide crack or sorta face climb around it until you hit the roof. Some awkward moves (this is 5.8????) past and through this roof land you on a ledge. Hmmmm.... do I walk to climbers left 40ft and clip a rap anchor and then top rope Old Hornington? Or do I continue up this low angle gulley crack and hope there are some clean and neat moves up top?
I went left. That will probably impact my tick list, but it seemed like the right call at the time. As noted in the description, place some high pro for the follower if you go left.