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Siberia
Routes Sorted
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A Bull with Gas 
Bazooka, The 
Ben Scabbyface 
Broken Dreams 
Child Proof 
Cross-Roads Finish 
Dos Chi Chis 
Gandy 
George's Route (aka Binder) 
Glen's Crack 
Hollywood Rattlesnake 
Irish Toothache 
Jack 
Kublai Corner 
Leon Redbone 
Love Gas 
Old Hornington 
Original Route (aka Jake Off) 
Randy 
Showers With Dad 
Toby 
Weo 
Yasmine Bleeth 
Unsorted Routes:

Original Route (aka Jake Off) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Season: winter sun
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Dec 7, 2013
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: West Siberia. T.Gordon pic, my overlay.

Description 

Follow the wide crack to an awkward roof encounter. After turning the roof you can either continue slogging up this crack or bail to climbers left and head to the anchor bolts of Old Hornington. If you bail left, be sure to protect the follower with some high pro as they will be mid crux when pulling your last piece before the traverse. The fall would be ghastly


Location 

The obvious wide crack system that splits the dome. The start is in the 6" crack at the base of the big left facing corner. No idea on how you get down. I would guess you could find some rap anchors by Irish Toothache or scramble down to climbers left.


Protection 

Pro to about 4" should cover it. If you do the entire route, take some extra stuff in the 1.5" to 2.5" range.



Comments on Original Route (aka Jake Off) Add Comment
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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 7, 2013

Swim up the wide crack or sorta face climb around it until you hit the roof. Some awkward moves (this is 5.8????) past and through this roof land you on a ledge. Hmmmm.... do I walk to climbers left 40ft and clip a rap anchor and then top rope Old Hornington? Or do I continue up this low angle gulley crack and hope there are some clean and neat moves up top?
I went left. That will probably impact my tick list, but it seemed like the right call at the time. As noted in the description, place some high pro for the follower if you go left.