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Y - North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beastie Crack T,TR 
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 
Flat-footed T,TR 
Hard Start TR 
Herb's Roof T,TR 
Hessing Route T,TR 
Inside Dihedral T,TR 
Left Mother T,TR 
Less-Hard Start T,TR 
Lizard Man T 
Middle Mother T,TR 
Nose, The TR 
Notch, The T,TR 
Open Book T,TR 
Original Open Book T,TR 
Porter Route T 
Ramp, The T,TR 
Rigid Deffacator T 
Triple Overhang T,TR 
Wisconsin T,TR 

Original Open Book 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Len Margolin & Steve Schum, 1970(?)
Page Views: 430
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 2, 2008

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Climb up the crack shared with the start for Herb's Roof, or climb blocks to the right. One of the variations climbs near faint rock art (Please avoid touching or standing on the faint petroglyph on the ramp! You reach a good rest below a slick open book corner with a finger crack in the back, and a crack on the left side. Stem and chimney to its top.


This crack is the next dihedral right of Beastie Crack


Cams to 3". 1 set nuts. Finger size cams are especially useful at the crux.
Bring your own gear for the anchor, or use static rope and anchor off trees (many of which are dying).

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By Ed Santiago
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 19, 2013

So, I'm not a geologist or any sort of expert, but the crack along the left side of the open book (halfway up) is distinctly wider than it was 4-5 weeks ago. I don't know how stable this kind of rock is, but if it were to fall it might ruin someone's day. Anyone qualified to take a look-see and comment further?

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