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Streaker Spire
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Original North Face Route T 

Original North Face Route 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 225', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Scott Baxter, Ross Hardwick, Karl Karlstrom, and Geoff Parker, 1972
Season: Fall through Spring
Page Views: 4,084
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

Streaker Spire is a fun mostly easy spire for Sedona and a really cool summit view for your trouble. Start from pine tree as described below. For some reason, I remember the route as three pitches, but think the safest way to do it is as described here:

P1) Traverse the limestone band, sometimes up, sometimes below (whatever's easiest!) to get out to a nice flat bivy-style ledge on right end of the north face. There used to be one bolt here and a small tree.

P2) Continue out on the limestone band, passing a last ledge with a tree, then go around the corner, tiptoeing out along the ledges to reach a wide crack that heads up. Belay.

P3) Climb the wide crack to reach a fat slot corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and belay.

P4) Climb cracks up the north face towards an obvious slot that is up and left that leads to the top. Getting into this slot is the crux of the route and is mostly just awkward. Chimney to the top and you're home. Fixed anchor on top.

Location 

The route starts on the back left corner (northeast) of the spire and traverses along ledges on the north side at it's start. You have to scramble (or belay if you need to) up onto the limestone band where there's a prominent pine tree. Belay off the tree for the pitch one traverse.

Descent via two rappels down the north face landing roughly where you started. Seems like you need two ropes? Been a long time...maybe someone can confirm or deny...

Protection 

Standard desert rack, nuts or tricams, plus medium to large cams.


Photos of Original North Face Route Slideshow Add Photo
Crux move. Just before pulling the buldge. There is a bomber #3 here. Put a hand jam way in the back and then use a face hold to a knee bar to pull over this. Fun stuff
BETA PHOTO: Crux move. Just before pulling the buldge. There i...
Old piton and bolt on the traverse. This is where you are supposed to make your second belay. We pass it up and combined pitch 1 and 2
Old piton and bolt on the traverse. This is where ...
Cool pitch.  It may not be hard but it will get your attention.  Go all the way around the turn and belay where you find a bomber bolt.
Cool pitch. It may not be hard but it will get yo...
David peering around the corning on the traverse. This is where pitch 1 ends but you can combine them
David peering around the corning on the traverse. ...
one rap down, one to go. a single 60m rope is enough. But just barely. The 2nd rap lands you towards the bottom of the 4th class approach area.
BETA PHOTO: one rap down, one to go. a single 60m rope is enou...
Greg following pitch 3. Fun stuff
Greg following pitch 3. Fun stuff

Comments on Original North Face Route Add Comment
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By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2006

To expand on Greg's description -

Pitch one and two as described can easily be combine into one pitch. Belay below the wide slot which leads into the large left facing corner system. There is one bolt here and a crack that will take 2" to 4" gear.

The descent can be accomplished with one 60m rope. The first rappel is about 100' to a large ledge. Scramble from here to the second rappel anchor. A second 100' rappel puts you in the middle of the 4th class approach pitch.

Does anyone have beta on the direct start to this route?
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Jun 3, 2006

To expand Will's description.... this can easily be done in 2 pitches!
By Todd R
Nov 17, 2007

The line of the direct start is visible in the topo photo/drawing. Note the lower ledge system that heads out right from way below the start of the Original Route, and follows the face/rt facing corner to the belay at the base of the wide bit of the O Rt. (where it says 5.6 on the topo)

Head out right on a sandstone ledge system for 60+ feet (it's been a while, sorry about the foggy memory). It's mostly 4th class with a bit of exposed low 5th to a bolted belay on a big ledge.

Climb up corner system and out right on the face, passing 1 (2?) bolts to a sweet hand crack behind a monster flake to another (optional?) bolted belay.

Continue up finger crack to limestone overhangs and belay at the wide crack belay of O Rt.

I climbed this route without bolts, by mistake, back in 2000. After finding several pieces of gear that O Rt climbers had dropped, we called it the Booty Chute variation when we went back to bolt it. It offers really fun climbing in the 5.7-8 grade.
By Richard Fernandez
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 3, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We did the raps with one 60 meter rope. Agree with the wide Climbing not pretty just a dirty fight with the rock. Great summit though. A solid climb.
By bjglenn
Mar 27, 2010

I have a love/hate relationship with this climb. Every time I rap off this climb I swear to all who are listening that I will NEVER climb/grovel up this P.O.S EVER again. A year later I'm on the first pitch wondering why is hated this thing so much...it's so great.

If you have solid off-width technique then this should be an easy climb...if you are lacking in the OW department they you will grovel, curse, scratch and scrape all your gear and backpack, and know what it feel like being born as you squeeze your body through the pitch 4 crux.

The feeling and view at the summit is well worth the effort.
By rpc
Feb 7, 2011

Dr. Rubos & The Mace are great warm ups for this one :)
By Alex Wood
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jan 29, 2012

Combing pitch 1 and 2 is pretty easy. Communication is a little bad, but even with a lot of wind we were still able to communicate. The crux in my mind is getting out of the traverse into that offwidth crack at the start of pitch 3(or pitch two the way we did it). That to me was more awkward then anything I have ever done. A #5 might have been nice on the last pitch, but just bury the #4 in deeper. I have heard lots of bad things about this climb but I actually found it to be quite enjoyable. Awesome summit!
By Danger Charles
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 18, 2012

An awesome pretty easy climb, hardest part of the day way the approach. We got lost attempting to head straight up to the saddle between the two spires directly from the Chapel. As far as the approach goes, it would have been way easier to take the Chapel trail to where it intersects with Little Horse and head left (northeast), wrapping behind the two spires and approach from there. Thats how we got down at least.

As for the climb wouldn't bring anything bigger than a #3 Camalot. I found the off-width to be pretty straightforward and enjoyable. The hardest part of the climb I thought was the slab before the off-width on the last pitch, one risky move over harder to protect rock.