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Winter Wall
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Old Sling T 
Old Sling Straightened T 
Original Face Route T 
Pale Face S 
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Vitaman T 
Xibalba S 

Original Face Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: "others..." before mid-90s
Page Views: 592
Submitted By: George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This low-angle face is 5.6 with trad pro for most of the way up. The last 20' has a few thin 5.7/5.8 moves with bolts for protection. The crux is just after the last bolt and requires good footwork. The bolt is still reasonably close at this point.

This is probably a good route to set a TR on for beginners, as it's 5.6 most of the way.

Location 

Climb 8 in the beta photo.
The excellent original online guide might also be of help.
The slabby face left of the white left-facing dihedral.
Rap route w/ one 60m rope.

Protection 

3 bolts up high. Nuts and cams (small ones mainly) for the bottom; but if you can solo 5.6 you need only draws.
2-bolt anchor.


Comments on Original Face Route Add Comment
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By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 8, 2008

I believe that this route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall.
By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008

No, this route was put up by others.