Original Beckey 5.11+
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Fred Beckey, Steve Marts, Herb Swedlund, 1963 |
| Season: | summer |
| Submitted By: | Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: topo of Direct Beckey by Reid Dowdle, with some ed...
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Description The original line of the Beckey route, starting up what is now p1 of Fine Line, and then going up a hard stemming pitch to join what is now the Direct Beckey. Most people do the Direct Beckey or Fine Line instead.
FFA(pitch one): Greg Lowe, Jeff Lowe, 1972
FFA(entire route): Reid Dowdle, Paul Potters, 1985 or 1986
Location center of the SW face
Protection standard rack; several fixed pins on the crux stemming pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Elephant's Perch - SW Face, Right
14. The Thorn B...
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BETA PHOTO: topo of first 5 pitches by Reid Dowdle, with some ...
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Such a cool stemming corner
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stemming corner from below
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| Comments on Original Beckey |
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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 10, 2008
| what are the pitch lengths in the topo? linking options? anyone done the P4 stem corner recently? how are the pins? thanks. |
By Leif
Jul 23, 2009
rating: 5.11+
| Climbed the P4 stem corner as a variation to the Direct Beckey July 20 2009. An excellent option. The first 4 pins or so look pretty good and I was able to supplement them with small nuts. The last pin looks a little suspect, I wouldn't have wanted to whip on it. Just hang on at the top. |
By dave bingham
Jun 28, 2012
| Having done these routes several times, Clint's route description may be a little confusing.
The "Original Beckey" is, naturally, the line Fred Becky picked for his first ascent. The easier, less obvious "Direct" was done only after free attempts on the original line failed. After several bolts and fixed pins were added to the original first and third pitches in the early 90's, the original Beckey became free - and well-protected.
The "Direct" starts lower and left of the original and joins it after 3 pitches. From that point you have the option of doing the super-classic (.11+) stemming corner (part of the original) or going direct via a blocky/loose .10 crack.
The Fine Line follows the original Beckey Route for two pitches, then continues up the slightly diagonal crack line while the Beckey steps left to the previously mentioned 3rd-pitch corner.
We did the route 7-22-12 and the fixed pins seem to be in decent shape.
Folks hesitate to alter ratings but here is my 2 cents.
P-1 5.11c
P-2 5.10c
P-3 5.11c/d
P-4 5.10d -climbing direct above the belay, not via the flake to the right.
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