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 ADVANCED
The Elephant's Perch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Astro Elephant T 
Chasing the Dragon T 
Direct Beckey T 
Divine Guidance T 
Fine Line, The T 
Mojo  T 
Mountaineer's Route T 
Myopia T 
Original Beckey T 
Sideline T 
Splittgerber-March Direct T 
Sunrise Book T 
Trunkline T 
Unknown T 
Wendy T 

Original Beckey 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Fred Beckey, Steve Marts, Herb Swedlund, 1963
Season: summer
Page Views: 3,640
Submitted By: Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Such a cool stemming corner

Description 

The original line of the Beckey route, starting up what is now p1 of Fine Line, and then going up a hard stemming pitch to join what is now the Direct Beckey. Most people do the Direct Beckey or Fine Line instead.

FFA(pitch one): Greg Lowe, Jeff Lowe, 1972
FFA(entire route): Reid Dowdle, Paul Potters, 1985 or 1986

Location 

center of the SW face

Protection 

standard rack; several fixed pins on the crux stemming pitch.


Photos of Original Beckey Slideshow Add Photo
 sending!
sending!
Elephant's Perch - SW Face, Right <br /> <br />14. The Thorn Bush 5.9 A3  <br />13. Slipstream 5.10 A3  <br />12. Hook & Ladder 5.9 A3  <br />11. Direct Beckey 5.11a **  <br />10. Original Beckey 5.11+, stemming pitch from Fine Line to Direct Beckey  <br />9. The Fine Line 5.11a ***  <br />9a. Fine Line Var. 5.8 A3  <br />8. Lost Horizons 5.10 A2+  <br />7. The Seagull 5.10 A3  <br />6. King's Highway 5.9 A3
BETA PHOTO: Elephant's Perch - SW Face, Right

14. The Thorn B...
topo of first 5 pitches by Reid Dowdle, with some edits
BETA PHOTO: topo of first 5 pitches by Reid Dowdle, with some ...
stemming corner from below
stemming corner from below
topo of Direct Beckey by Reid Dowdle, with some edits
BETA PHOTO: topo of Direct Beckey by Reid Dowdle, with some ed...
P5?
P5?

Comments on Original Beckey Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 10, 2008

what are the pitch lengths in the topo? linking options? anyone done the P4 stem corner recently? how are the pins? thanks.
By Leif
Jul 23, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Climbed the P4 stem corner as a variation to the Direct Beckey July 20 2009. An excellent option. The first 4 pins or so look pretty good and I was able to supplement them with small nuts. The last pin looks a little suspect, I wouldn't have wanted to whip on it. Just hang on at the top.
By dave bingham
Jun 28, 2012

Having done these routes several times, Clint's route description may be a little confusing.

The "Original Beckey" is, of course, the line Fred Becky did on the first ascent. The "Direct" was done decades later after free attempts on the original line failed. In the early 90's bolts and pins were added to the first and third pitches, and the "Original Beckey" became free - and well-protected.

The "Direct" starts lower and left of the original and joins it after 3 pitches. From that point you have the option of joining the Original route (the stemming corner)or one more straight up via a blocky/loose .10 crack before joining the "Original".

The "Fine Line" follows the original Beckey Route for two pitches,but continues up the diagonal crack line.The Beckey steps left on p. 2 to the belay below the previously mentioned 3rd-pitch corner.

We did the route 7-22-12 and fixed pins seem to be in decent shape.

Folks hesitate to alter ratings but here is my 2 cents.
P-1 5.11d: sustained climbing w slabbly corner crux.
P-2 5.10c: Great stem and finger cracks.
P-3 5.11c/d: full-on stemming past fixed pins and small gear.
P-4 5.10d: climbing direct above the belay, not via the flake to the right.
P-5/6 and up: solid 5.10 crack climbing.
P-7 to 10: Easier..but not over!


By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 26, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Dave's beta above is spot on. All fixed gear was in good shape July '14. P1 & P3 are very secure and safe, just trust your feet! Pitch for pitch, I thought this climb was FAR superior to Myopia. But that's just like, my opinion, man.