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Orifice Wall
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Orifice Politics 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: EFR,Vince Bates Josie Becker,Geir Hundal, '08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,696
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Sep 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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EFR on the lower "easier" section of Orifice Polit...

Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a line I have looked at since 1996. The first forty feet had been started by Mark Hathaway so I stayed off of it. In 2001 I bolted a hard variation finish in an effort not to ruffle Marks feathers but still allow me to climb this face. Mark worked it some in 2001 but as far as I know that was it. This year Vince called and asked if he could work the route which was pretty nice since almost no work that I know of has been done on it in years. Mark said yes and so Vince and I started working the route with my alternate finish. Vince figured out the first crux (the Mary Poppins move) which I had never done til this year. Thanks to a little cleaning to consolidate the kitty litter it is pretty reasonable now. Vince has done the route with my original finish which has a harder crux higher up with one hang. Today we bolted the line that I had always envisioned which goes straight up a big flake then turns the bulge and up a less steep but still overhanging headwall. So after twelve years of looking at it and few dozen tries at the crux I finally got to climb it on my second run. It is a great line with a wild crux slightly less than half way up. The rest of the climb is an enduro fest that took knee bars and arm bars to make it go. Will have to wait for others opinions but for twelve years I have said it is one of the most striking lines in Tucson and that is why I am so thrilled to finally climb it. Hey the guidelines say deepest thoughts. Not that deep maybe but they are my thoughts.

P.S. The swing off of this route is even better than Hard Day. Climb up to the second bolt step left make sure you have as much stretch out of the rope as possible then cut loose.

Location 

Starts on the ramp about 6 feet before you reach the ledge where you start Hard Day... 70M rope will ensure no one hits the ground on the 102 foot lower.

Protection 

Bolts,chaws(chain draws) Bring some draws as a few bolts don't have chaws. One working bolt at the crux that is only used to work out the move then skipped.


Photos of Orifice Politics Slideshow Add Photo
EF-badass-R, the grand master in the unsent variation of Orifice Politics.
EF-badass-R, the grand master in the unsent variat...
EFR showing how to milk it: heel-toe footjam, high in Orifice Politics.
EFR showing how to milk it: heel-toe footjam, high...
Peter Piek just starting the business of Orifice Politics.
Peter Piek just starting the business of Orifice P...
Jesse Schultz fighting for the second ascent of Orifice Politics.
Jesse Schultz fighting for the second ascent of Or...
Vince Bates figures out the crux for the first time.
Vince Bates figures out the crux for the first tim...
Jesse Schultz on his way to tagging the second ascent of Orifice Politics on his third run.
Jesse Schultz on his way to tagging the second asc...
Matt S. Enjoying the wonderful exposure
Matt S. Enjoying the wonderful exposure

Comments on Orifice Politics Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 14, 2013
By vince bates
Sep 17, 2008

nice work eric!! i should let everyone know what a great battle it was, both physically and mentally, for this to go down. and judging by the huge grin plastered on your face, eric, it was well worth it!! it was great to have been there to cheer you on to victory!!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 17, 2008

great send eric! that's one for the history books!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 18, 2008

Glad you guys were there. Now that a couple of days have passed and I have had time to think about it, climbing that route may have been the single best effort I have ever given while sport climbing. I have done some harder routes but those were so wired that they didn't seem too bad when I climbed them. Pretty cool stuff. Can't wait for Saturday!
By Red
From: Arizona
Sep 29, 2008

Wow! Good job getting that FA Eric! I didn't realize that route was a project up until like two weeks ago. Jesse, Same to you, great work with the SA third go! It was nice to meet both of you up there this Saturday.
Luke
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 17, 2009

i have heard this climb has the awesome. is there truth to this statement?
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 18, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

As good as Hard Day is, this is even better. It is longer and more sustained, and for me, every single move was smooth and seemed to flow right into the next one. Not an awkward move on the whole climb. there are some amazing sequences using some unique holds, and some really cool hidden rests. I'm pretty sure this will always be near the top of my favorite climbs.

The crux is waiting the 9 months until we can get back out there.
By RyanJames
Feb 23, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Quite possibly the best route I've ever done.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 19, 2010

an excellent route. sustained, fun moves the whole way, creative rests, and fantastic exposure.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Oct 19, 2010

Way to go Geir!
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 19, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Geir DESTROYED the route today! An excellent redpoint, with effortless climbing and amazing use of the rests. Great job, Geir!
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 20, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Awesome Geir! :-)
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 20, 2010

thanks all! this one will be a memorable route for me for sure. joe, thanks for the belay!
By jbak
Oct 21, 2011

Fan......kick-frackin......tastic !!
By Brian Schmitt
Jul 16, 2012

I love climbing ethics, gotta wait 12 years to send a beautiful line cuz of someone elses huge ego, lol.
By jbak
Jul 17, 2012

Brian Schmitt said........
I love climbing ethics, gotta wait 12 years to send a beautiful line cuz of someone elses huge ego, lol.
..................

That's exactly the type comment that makes me regret contributing anything to this site.
By Dominic Weinstock
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Easily best 12 I've ever done! Cheers guys for all the effort putting it up!