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Orient Bay Ice and Mixed

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Cascade Falls/Obsession Area 
Ice Palace 
North End 
Pumping Station  
Reflection Wall/Amy R Area 
South End 

Orient Bay Ice and Mixed Rock Climbing 


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Location: 49.37341, -88.12958 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,953
Administrators: Dave Rone, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Aug 19, 2009
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Ranxerox Tangent. Feb 2012. Photo: Nate Erickson.

Description 

Description
One of Canada's premiere winter climbing areas. Many high-quality lines.




Getting There 

Getting There
From Duluth take Hwy 61 north across the US border. Continue on 61 into Thunder Bay. From Thunder Bay, take Hwy 11 into Nipigon (motels, food, beer). To get to the climbs from Nipigon, continue on Hwy 11 for about 36 miles until you reach Trans-Canada Pipeline Station on the left. At that point, the prominent Glace Eclatante will be visible ahead. You're there.

References: "Ice Climbs of the Lake Superior Region" by Eric Landmann and Don Hynek, Granite Publishing

Websites: Climbing Central Beta Page,
Alpine Club of Canada, Thunder Bay Section: acctbay.ca./index.php

Climbing Season



Weather station 19.5 miles from here

36 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Orient Bay Ice and Mixed

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Orient Bay Ice and Mixed:
Gomar Falls   WI3     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 260'   Pumping Station
Hully Gully   WI2+     Ice, 2 pitches, 140'   South End
Evil Des Sens   WI4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 55'   Ice Palace
Amy R   WI2+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   Reflection Wall/Amy R Area
Ice Invaders   WI2     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
Glace Eclatante   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   Pumping Station
Ranxerox Tangent   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   Ice Palace
Andromeda Weeps   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   North End
Obsession   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches, 180'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
Cascade Falls   WI3-4     Ice, 1 pitch, 130'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
10% Real   WI5     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 150'   Ice Palace
Sycho Icycho   WI2+     Ice, 1 pitch, 190'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
Tears of Joy   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   North End
Mellow Yellow   WI3+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   South End
Tempest   WI2+     Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   Cascade Falls/Obsession Are...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Orient Bay Ice and Mixed

Featured Route For Orient Bay Ice and Mixed
Rock Climbing Photo: Climb the blunt arĂȘte left of the ice to a ledge....

drone attack WI5 M7+  North America : Canada : ... : Ice Palace
A fun route on excellent rock and steep ice. Climb past 9 bolts to a ledge about 80' up, where you'll find a bolted anchor. It's a bit cruxy from the 5th to the 6th bolt, where the parallel-sided crack widens, and the feet get thin, and then again gaining the ledge. Move across the ledge to the right, and climb overhanging and then vertical ice, finishing to the right of the trees above.An alternate finish continues up the well-featured rock face (small stoppers, C3's, C4's to 1.5") above the...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Orient Bay Ice and Mixed Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Rusk
From: Duluth, MN
May 27, 2008
This area is amazing for any level of climber. In addition to the climbs in Orient Bay, many of which are not listed, there are numerous ice and mixed lines in area. If you've done other climbs in this area please post them.
By Lou Hibbard
From: Eagan, MN
Apr 15, 2014
A great resource for finding more remote Orient Bay climbs in deep snow is Wes Bender's summary of GPS locations found on the Alpine Club of Canada Thunder Bay section website:
www.acctbay.ca/community_maps.php

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