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Orgy 
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Orgy 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 739
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 2, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Topo showing Orgy on the East Buttress of ORP

Description 

A nice beginner route up the beautiful east buttress of ORP. The first 3 pitches are excellent.

P1: Start at the base of the gully on the south of the east buttreess of ORP. Climb easy terrain up past a tree and on towards the top of a shoulder. 100'.

P2: Climb a series of low angle cracks, passing a nice ledge and ending up on another broad ledge beneath a steeper "headwall", 100'.

P3: 5.6, the "crux" pitch. A wide chimney like crack, but not chimney like climbing. Good protection and holds abound. At the top the angle drops back to 4th class boulders to the top of a major shoulder on the buttress.

P4: 4th class but exposed scrambling around the corner to climbers left and down into the gully to the south of the buttress. ONce in the gully and obvious corner system can be seen on the right-hand side. Unfortunately 60m is not enough to get you from the shoulder up to the top, so stop and belay wherever you can find a comforatble spot. ~150'.

P5: 5.4 up the corner, which has one reachy move that will make you stop and think for a moment. At the top of the corner, the angle eases back to 3rd class boulders and slabs to the summit. Again, a 60m rope isn't long enough to reach the summit, so a final anchor point may be necessary to bring up a second before 3rd classing up to the top.


Location 

Located on the south side of the east buttress of ORP. The east buttress is roughly divided in two lobes by a giant chimney system, the first 3 pitches of Orgy climb up the south lobe. Approach by rabbit Ears canyon until near the base of the route, or hike in between ORP and Lesser Spire and then scramble down into the canyon for a more strenuous short-cut.

Descend by rapping down the gully on the south of the route, or scramble further south towards Rabbit Ears Massif and then down an easier gully.


Protection 

Pure traditional goodness, there was not a shred of fixed gear along the entire climb (well, except for the rappel down the gully...)



Photos of Orgy Slideshow Add Photo
Looking back at the traverse pitch (pitch 4).  There is one spicy exposed move (protectable), then smooth sailing.  There may be an alternative by going around to the right of the very top of the east buttress, but we didn't try that.
Looking back at the traverse pitch (pitch 4). The...
Looking up at the 1st pitch.  Climb in the gulley for a few moves, then exit right and head for the tree.
Looking up at the 1st pitch. Climb in the gulley ...
We descended one gully to the south of what's shown in the topo.  Getting to the gully was an adventure, but except for this guy, uneventful going down.
We descended one gully to the south of what's show...
Comments on Orgy Add Comment
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By Eugene Staley
From: Lamar, Colorado
Jul 29, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

I believe that this is a little stiff for a 5.6, not quite a 5.7.
No matter, this is on of my favorite routes so far.

By Marta Reece
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jul 29, 2012

I do not recommend rapping down the gully to the south of Orgy. The two lower rappels are protected by a single piton each. The first is small and rusty, the second takes an exposed technical move to reach it.

My preferred way is to go down the next gully to the south. From the saddle on top of Orgy head toward the small peak opposite ORP and climb up a short, vertical crack, the one pointing at the prominent V of rocks on top of the photo (5.6). Scramble though the V and up to the left into a chimney style cut in rocks with a flat bottom. Walk through the cut to the other side.

The gully has some loose rock and brush, but is passable all the way down. When it does look like you may have to rap, just go to the left of the slick looking rocks and you should find an easy, stemming down-climb.

Final crack climb to the walk off.
Final crack climb to the walk off.


Alternatively, it is possible to rap down to the west. This is the fastest way to get back.

From the top of Orgy rap into the gully south and west of the saddle. The rappel as set up is awkward to get onto. It should be continued as far as possible. Do not stop at the first flat ground encountered.

Continue down the gully through dense brush, fortunately generally without stickers. Once on top of rock look for a sling on a small tree. The first rap (about 100 feet) is to a substantial tree. The second requires two ropes and ends in the gully south of Southern Comfort Wall, at this altitude also south of Lesser Spire. The scramble down the gully is easier on the south side where there are more boulder fields. Cross over to the trail at the base of Southern Comfort Wall near the bottom end of it.

By Marta Reece
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jul 29, 2012

It is possible top avoid the exposed traverse which may be challenging to protect for your second. Just continue up after Pitch 3 on the right side of the middle of the buttress over broken rock, then climb up and to the left through the obvious window. On the other side down-climb few feet and head right to a tree.

The moves along this route are easy and can be protected. The rock is not as unstable as it looks, but overall this variation is uninviting. Taking the traverse is cleaner even if more, shall we say, "inspiring."

By Mike Stowe
Apr 7, 2014

Tried to climb Orgy this past weekend and Josh Hamling (leader) and myself went left of the ORGY route..following a system of cracks...probably a stiff 5.8 at the 3rd pitch as protection is limited....pretty cool route. Wondering if this is a first ascent or if someone else has attempted this variation?

I can post a picture as well..which i working on now.