Orgasmatron  5.11b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Richard Rossiter and Serena Benson, 1999 Season:  Not Winter Submitted By:  Richard Rossiter on Aug 5, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Melissa Meyers having just cleared the crux consid...

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Description 

This is a challenging route. Begin from the top of the pillar described below. Climb to a roof, then undercling left and pull around to the left side of a sharp arete. Climb straight up to where the angle eases, veer left, then back up and right to the 2-ring anchor at the top of the wall.

NOTE: Bob D'Antonio's guidebook has Lost Highway and Orgasmatron switched in the photo. On the third pitch, Orgasmatron is to the left of Lost Highway.

Location 

This route runs parallel to the final pitch of Lost Highway and begins from the common belay atop a large pillar. The Lost Highway Area is located at the far right side of the wall. Hike the West Trail to near its high point, and take a left branch that leads west to a large boulder perched on bare granite. Continue down to the north about 30 feet, down a short groove, and locate a 2-bolt anchor on a small and exposed ledge beneath a scrub juniper. Rappel 85 feet to a good ledge atop a pillar. The Orgasmatron may also be reached by climbing the first two pitches of Lost Highway (q.v.).

Protection 

9 bolts with a 2-bolt anchor at either end of the pitch.

Photos of Orgasmatron Slideshow

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The view is straight down the arete with Melissa j...

Melissa Meyers enjoying easier terrain above the a...